Days 72 to 83, Gainesville, Va. to Duncannon, Pa.

June 6, Saturday
I'm blogging from the Doyle Hotel bar in Duncannon, Pa. I arrived in town yesterday afternoon, and after deciding wasn't quite ready to embark on the rockiest 100 miles of the AT, I decided to zero today. I zeroed just about a week ago, consequently, I won't be taking another day off for three weeks, so I better make the most of today. This section of blog includes some pretty good milestones, such as entering Harper's Ferry with Jen, reaching the half-way point, completing the half-gallon challenge and completing a personal best 26.5-mile day. Not too bad for a week of work. I'm now closer to Maine than I am to Georgia, which is amazing to me. Even if I don't finish the AT, no one can take away from the experiences I've already encountered. So, it's time to pound out this blog, grab a beer and relax on the Susquehana river. Cheers and let's all raise a glass to an excellent summer. Oh, and go Braves! ~ Steamboat

Day 72, May 25, Monday
Start: Gainesville, Va.
End: Rod Hollow Shelter
Mileage: 6.2 miles, 983.2 miles from Springer

The rain has returned today as Jen and I hiked 6.2 miles from Sky Meadows State Park. It was a pretty difficult additional 1.7 miles from the visitors center up to the trail, so our daily total is nearly 7.9 miles.
Jen's first day included brutal humidity, shelter spiders that are quite hairy, and a snake encounter at the privy. Also, it has been raining for four hours now and we were forced to shelter, rather than tent tonight. I'm not sure if the accommodations suit her.
This weekend I was treated to the excellent hospitality of the Wingers, who made sure I was well fed and and stocked with beer. In fact. Jen's dad, Jeff, picked me up from the trailhead with beers on ice! Perfect welcoming present.
Memorial Day weekend was mostly spent in the basement preparing Jen's gear, in the backyard playing badminton, or drinking beers on the deck. Jen and I put up a poor badminton showing to her cousin Colleen. It's good to have talk and experiences beyond the trail. It has been a long time coming.

Day 73, May 26, Tuesday
Start: Rod Hollow Shelter
End: Bears Den Hostel
Mileage: 9.9 miles, 993.1 miles from Springer

Short, but difficult day today as Jen and I slipped and slided over rocks in heavy rain through the first two-thirds of the "Roller Coaster," which is a 13-mile stretch of of trail with 13 peaks to climb. The most harrowing point was shimmying across a long five-foot log over a fast moving stream. The water was too swift to wade across. We finished the day at Bears Den Hostel, where a shower, laundry, pint of ice cream, pizza and bunk were included for $25. Also, the caretaker's two-year-old daughter, Hikelette was the entertainment for the night.

Day 74, May 27, Wednesday
Start: Bears Den Hostel
End: Blackburn Trail Center
Mileage:7.96.2 miles, 1001 miles from Springer

Happy 1,001 miles on the trail! This milestone would be sweeter if I was half way to Katahdin, but I'm still about 70 miles away from that point. Tomorrow I'll make it into Harper's Ferry, WV, the emotional half way point, but it will be much nicer to know I'm leaving Virginia, where I've hiked since March 30.
I spend this special night at the Blackburn Trail Center where I enjoyed a home cooked pasta dinner from the caretaker, Brian. The center is an 1800s homestead with 180 acres and an old log house. There is also a hiker hostel, but Jen and I set up my tent on the screened-in front porch. Brian also treated us with brownies, sodas and beer. All of this was free of charge because the center is run by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club who use the center for their own use and to give back to hikers.
The rain held off today, thankfully, but the mist was dampening. The two or three views were obscured by the clouds during our short 7.9 mile day. Jen says her knee hurts, so I hope she'll be OK into Harper's Ferry. 1,000 miles. I can't seem to believe I've come this far.

Day 75, May 28, Thursday
Start: Blackburn Trail Center
End: Harper's Ferry, WV
Mileage: 12.4 miles, 1,013.4 miles from Springer

~No Journaling

Day 76, May 29, Friday
Start: Harper's Ferry, WV
End: Harper's Ferry, WV
Mileage: Zero Day, 1,013.4 miles from Springer

~No Journaling

Day 77, May 30, Saturday
Start: Harper's Ferry, WV
End: Washington Monument State Park, Maryland
Mileage: 19.1 miles, 1,032.5 miles from Springer

~No Journaling

Day 78, May 31, Sunday
Start: Washington Monument State Park, Maryland
End: Smithsburg, Maryland
Mileage: 11.9 miles, 1,044.4 miles from Springer

I have not blown out of the gate in Maryland despite slack packing yesterday and easy terrain today. It's nice not to be rushing from dawn to dusk as I was in the Shenandoahs. I only managed about 12 miles today, and despite this, I still stopped at the Free State Hostel, which is amazing. Squeaky clean with an awesome selection of sodas. Also, I am now caught up with watching The Office.
Jen did awesome hiking with me for her first 34 miles, but the last six miles into Harpers Ferry were pretty tough on her. Jen's gymnastic days were not kind to her body, and the trail has a way of bringing out every ache and pain, no matter how long it has been dormant. SO, instead of pushing on into Maryland, we zeroed in Harper's on Friday. She visited the ATC headquarters where my picture was taken for the records of 2009 thru-hikers. I was NOBO 137. Harvey was like 16! I moved on Slack packing Saturday as her mom drove to Harpers, and then to Washington Monument State Park to pick me up and take me back to their home in Northern VA. With the hostel tonight, I have not been in a shelter since Monday. I probably shouldn't get too comfortable.

Day 79, June 1, Monday
Start: Smithsburg, MD
End: Tumbling Run Shelters
Mileage: 18.3 miles, 1,062.7 miles from Springer

After my sixth straight night in either a hostel, B&B or Jen's home, I'm finally back to the shelters. this particular shelter site is interesting because there are two twin, four-person shelters only 30 feet apart. One is labeled "snoring," which I have all to myself, while the "non snoring" shelter is occupied by Phoenix.
Today's hike was rocky at times and pretty unnoteworthy. I'm getting back into the grind and my 18.3 miles is sufficient. I may try 25 miles tomorrow. I mostly thought of school today and classes I would like to teach, such as an American Exploration Literature class. It would start with Lewis & Clark and conclude with Bill Bryson's "A Walk in the Woods."
I'm not sure how long I plan to hike through Pennsylvania, which I entered mid-day today. I haven't been looking very far down the road the past week, focusing instead on the next few days ahead. I aim to be in Duncannon, PA Thursday night, but if it's Friday, then no worries. I don't' want to burn myself out meeting tough two week challenges. The only challenge that remains is Katahdin, which i prudently move toward.

Day 80, June 2, Tuesday
Start: Tumbling Run Shelter
End: Birch Run Shelter
Mileage: 19.6 miles, 1,082.3 miles from Springer

~No Journaling

Day 81, June 3, Wednesday
Start: Birch Run Shelter
End: James Fry Shelter
Mileage: 17.1 miles, 1,099.4 miles from Springer, 1,078.9 miles from Katahdin

From here on to the end of my journey I will countdown the miles to Mt. Katahdin in Maine, rather than miles from Springer Mtn. in Georgia because I am officially past half way. I'm rather shocked I made it this far as I have battled emotional and physical lows during my 80 days on the trail. To finish with time to move to St. Louis I need a sub 75-day second half.
I've already hiked through six states, with Pennsylvania being my seventh. I've placed about 2.5 million steps, very few of them pain free. Further, I've gained a sense of order to my priorities that may not have occurred without this time to really think about what is important to me. As Woody Guthrie wrote, "I've loved so many people everywhere I went. Some too much and others not enough."
It's not surprising that I think of those I miss while I'm out here, mostly alone, but the extent I miss them was unthinkable before I left. this hike remains a daily, almost hourly struggle, one I may not see to its end, but I keep moving. It's not always fun. In fact, it's often miserable, but the trek continues.
In addition to making the halfway point today, I completed the half-gallon challenge. I ate a half gallon of Moose Tracks ice cream in a paltry 1.5 hrs. Subsequently, I will never eat Moose Tracks again. Ever.

Day 82, June 4, Thursday
Start: James Fry Shelter
End: Darlington Shelter
Mileage: 26.5 miles, 1,052 miles from Katahdin, 1,125.9 miles from Springer

I have a new personal record today as I hiked 26.5 miles, including a two-hour lunch in Boiling Springs, PA. The terrain was mostly flat after an initial, gradual downhill. The last two miles were a pretty tough incline to keep the day honest, for most of the hiking was through privately owned farmland. The family farms spanned the whole of the Cumberland Valley. Climbing up the last ridge there was a rare overlook where I could see across the 15-mile wide valley I had passed through today. It was a rare instance of gaining perspective of where I was moving compared to where I started. It made the day special compared to where I started. I didn't feel as if I was walking in a bubble or snow globe with no impact on space or time. Some days it's as if I'm on a treadmill with a moving background. I rarely even know my place in a state. I was shocked to discover today that I'm half-way through Penn.
Further, I met new hikers today as I prepare to enter Duncannon tomorrow. Lulu and Bojangles join the group that includes Phoenix, brothers Younger and Older, along with their dog Rouge, and Tank.

Day 83, June 5, Friday
Start: Darlington Shelter
End: Duncannon, PA, Doyle Hotel
Mileage: 11.5 miles, 1,041 miles from Katahdin, 1,137.3 miles from Springer

~ No Journaling

Day 84, June 6, Friday
Start: Duncannon, PA, Doyle Hotel
End: Duncannon, PA, Doyle Hotel
Mileage: 11.5 miles, 1,041 miles from Katahdin, 1,137.3 miles from Springer

SONG OF THE DAY...

Muswell Hillbilly By The Kinks
Well I said goodbye to rosie rooke this morning, I'm gonna miss her bloodshot alcoholic eyes, She wore her sunday hat so she'd impress me, I'm gonna carry her memory 'til the day I die. They'll move me up to muswell hill tomorrow, Photographs and souvenirs are all I've got, They're gonna try and make me change my way of living, But they'll never make me something that I'm not. Cos I'm a muswell hillbilly boy, But my heart lies in old west virginia, Never seen new orleans, oklahoma, tennessee, Still I dream of the black hills that I ain't never seen. They're putting us in little boxes, No character just uniformity, They're trying to build a computerised community, But they'll never make a zombie out of me. They'll try and make me study elocution, Because they say my accent isn't right, They can clear the slums as part of their solution, But they're never gonna kill my cockney pride. Cos I'm a muswell hillbilly boy, But my heart lies in old west virginia, Though my hills are not green, I have seen them in my dreams, Take me back to those black hills, That I have never seen.

Days 57 to 71, Daleville, Va. to Gainesville, Va.

Monday, May 25, 2009

I can't express this sentiment too much -- It's good to be off the trail. I've pushed 259 miles in 13 days, averaging a clip more than 20 miles per day. My shins held up over the long haul, but the soles of my feet, along with my leg muscles are aching and yelling for some time off, so I've relented and I'm spending a double zero weekend off the trail at my girlfriend's parent's house in Gainesville, Va., which is about 30 minutes from where I left the trail at Sky Meadows State Park. Jen will be joining me on the trail next week for a slower roll into Pennsylvania, where I'll hit the official half-way point. As for today, we are grilling out and getting her gear/supplies in order. My first-month friends are well ahead of me at this point. Harvey is in New York, along with the Brits, Whiz Kid and Spirit Fingers. I make a point to read their shelter register entries, but I'm reading their thoughts and observations from a month prior. After four weeks back on the trail, I'm just now reading their entries from late April, the same week I returned. There is a month of experiences they've had that I've yet to come across. I hope never to see that one has dropped from the trip. As for me, I'm not sure if I'll finish because my school commitments this fall may force me to quit by August 10. I may be within 100 miles from Katahdin at that drop dead date. ~ Steamboat.


Day 57, May 10, Sunday
Start: Daleville, VA
End: Bobblets Gap Shelter
Mileage: 18.5 miles, 737.1 miles from Springer Mountain

Another beautiful hike today as Virginia is quickly becoming my favorite section of the trail. The hike out of Daleville, VA was a very easy grade despite climbing 1,300 ft up to the scandalously named Fullhardt Knob Shelter for lunch.
My legs felt fresh and powerful after the zero day in Daleville. My endurance continues to bottom out after about 18 miles. I need to quickly acclimate myself to 20 mile days. I'm pushing for 23.6 miles tomorrow, but I may stop short at 18.3. I must summit at 4,200 ft. tomorrow, which is the highest point from now until New Hampshire. It may take everything out of me.
A milestone of sorts occurred today as I crossed the Blue Ridge Parkway for the first time. The AT runs parallel to the BRP for more than 100 miles and crosses the road dozens of times. I found the experience strange today to stumble into a parking lot full of Winnebegos and doughy tourists. They seemed as shocked to see me.
I share the shelter with plunger and Mr. Right, a young couple from San Francisco. I hope my snoring doesn't keep them up.


Day 58, May 11, Monday Start:
Bobblets Gap Shelter
End: Cornelius Creek Shelter
Mileage: 18.3 miles, 755.4 miles from Springer Mountain

I set out late this morning due to a light, cold rain. I didn't much enjoy the rapping of water against the roof of the shelter so early in the morning, so I pulled my sleeping bag over my head and slept until 9:30 am. The late start ruined my plan for 23.6 miles today, but I managed a nice 18.3 mile day that was quite enjoyable after the rain let up at 11 am.
I managed a three-mile pace for long bursts today. I enjoyed three long breaks to slow down the day. I usually aim for 2 mph, so the quick pace surprised me. I blistered the last five miles in under two hours, which was made all the impressive considering it included 2,200 ft of vertical climb up Floyd Mountain. I would have continued on past Cornelius Creek if it were not for the failing light.
I again share the shelter with Plunger and Mr. Right, but we haven't conversed much. The past two days I have felt the most alone so far, but that suits me fine for now. 36.5 miles in two days is a good pace. If I keep it up I may get to Jen on time.

Day 59, May 12, Tuesday
Start: Cornelius Creek Shelter
End: Johns Hollow Shelter
Mileage: 21.6 miles, 777 miles from Springer Mountain

My three-day push has netted me 58.5 miles, which pushes me closer to Jen and closer to my original itinerary. I'm only 12 days behind schedule despite my 3.5 weeks off the trail. My fast start with Harvey afforded me a bit of a cushion. If I stay at this pace I should shave even more days, which is essential because 12 days takes me to Aug. 18. School commitments start Aug. 20, so that's not enough time to return from Maine, move to St. Louis, and find and apartment. August 10 must be my drop dead date. If I'm not close to finishing, then I must save the rest for next summer. I'll be severely disappointed to be a section hiker, rather than a thru-hiker.
Today's hike was moderate with good weather. I again felt strong, but my endurance needs to increase to really hit some big days. I'm aiming for my first back-to-back 20-miler since the 50 mile challenge into Damascus, VA, which is where my shin splint exploded.

Day 60, May 13, Wednesday
Start: Johns Hollow Shelter
End: Buena Vista, VA
Mileage: 20.1 miles, 797.1 miles from Springer Mountain

After 60 days on the trail I've had more ups and downs than PUDS. From blisters to IT band pulls, along with sub zero nights, a girardia scare, overused knees and four blackened toes, I've been beaten and battered by the trail. Let's not forget my shin splint. So, as I rest in the dingiest of motel rooms, reflecting on my two months of placing one foot in front of the other, I can honestly say I've never been more committed, and excited, about the Appalachian Trail.
I've hiked 78.6 miles the past four days virtually pain free. I no longer feel like I'm on a death march or I'm running running the gauntlet. It sounds simple, but hiking without pain is actually pleasurable.
I saw my first bear cub this morning. A small, black cub ran across the trail about 30 yards in front of me and climbed half way up a tree before looking down at me. Where was the mother bear? I didn't want to come between the two, but I slowly passed the tree with a shot of adrenaline and carried on 20.1 miles in less than 8 hours. I had a good step in my pace today.

Day 61, May 14, Thursday
Start: Buena Vista, VA
End: The Priest Shelter
Mileage: 21.1 miles, 818 miles from Springer Mountain

The shelter shudders in the dark as a heavy thunderstorm batters me and my bunkmates. I narrowly beat the rain into camp as I raced through a 21.1 mile day, which was my third 20-miler in a row. This is despite not getting on the trail until 10:30 this morning because I needed a hitch out of Buena Vista.
I'm making great progress through central Virginia this past week. I've hiked 100.6 miles in five days since Daleville. I'm now 35 miles from Waynesboro, but with the oddly spaced shelters I'm only going 13 or so miles tomorrow. I'll go further and tent if the weather permits, but I've come to expect very wet weather in Virginia.
The hike today began with a tough 2,000 ft climb off of US 60 to Cold Mountain. Once through this climb it was a lot of PUDS. I'm catching many hikers, and putting their faces to their trail register entries is always interesting. Among those met today include, Spaceship, Javelin, Kiwi, L-Train, and Ketchup.

Day 62, May 15, Friday
Start: The Priest Shelter
End: Campsite
Mileage: 20.3 miles, 838.3 miles from Springer Mountain

~No Journaling

Day 63, May 17, Saturday
Start: Campsite
End: Waynesboro, VA
Mileage: 13.7 miles, 852.5 miles from Springer Mountain

~No Journaling

Day 64, May 17, Sunday
Start: Waynesboro, VA
End: Blackrock Hut
Mileage: 19.9 miles, 872.4 miles from Springer Mountain

Shenandoah National Park

I didn't journal the past two nights so I have a couple of anecdotes to relay. On my way toward Waynesboro I met a Ridgerunner named Mike. A Ridgerunner is an Appalachian Trail Conservancy volunteer who helps maintain trail. After talking a few minutes he goes, "Cooter? From Colorado?" He apparently put two & two together about my blog, which a coworker was following. "Cooter" is a Colorado nickname I had that I used as a profile name on the Appalachian Trail site Whiteblaze.net. His friend followed my journey, so I want to say hi. I'm sorry I forgot your name though. John W? From Yorktown?
Also, the town of Waynesboro has a list of trail angels who provide shelters to and from town. I called Margarite because she was far down the list and the named seemed fun. What I received was a very friendly, almost exuberant, grandmotherly tour guide. I also wish to thank her.
I enter the Shenandoahs today with a slight malaise after my big push last week. I feel bored. I hope to push a personal record this week to get the juices flowing again.

Day 65, May 18, Monday
Start: Blackrock Hut
End: High Top Hut
Mileage: 21.4 miles, 893.8 miles from Springer Mtn.

Another lethargic day today despite the 21.4 miles. I didn't hit the trail until 10:15 am because I was pretty cold after overnight lows in the 30s. My bag is rated only to 40 degrees. My lethargy may be due to some trail burnout. I'm into my fourth week back and I'm still in Virginia despite my quickening pace. I've hiked about 180 miles in nine days and the monotony may be getting to me. It will be nice to slow down with Jen.The excitement for today was animal, not view related. I saw a dozen deer, some of which were as docile as the ferrel ponies in the Grayson Highlands. They were close enough to pet and had no fear of me. They must know there are no firearms allowed in the Shenandoahs. I also saw a half dozen rabbits, also not afraid of me, and a falcon that flew no more than 30 feet over my head.I've built a good fire and I hope it warms me enough for the night. I don't want another cold night like last night. Also, I saw two deer running together. It made me a bit sad because I've no one to hang with on the trail.

Day 66, May 19, Tuesday
Start: High Top Hut
End: Big Meadows Campground
Mileage: 21.4 miles, 914.2 miles from Springer Mtn.

I managed a 9 am departure, but whatever headway that may seem to ensure was erased with my high number of breaks. It was a beautiful day, albeit another chilly night, but I just haven't fallen into the groove I was in rocking out 20 milers last week over harder terrain. I'm only three days from seeing Jen, but my legs just won't seem to get me there at a quick pace. For the third day in a row it was a mad three-hour dash to finish the day before dusk because I slacked during the day. I'm looking forward to zeroing at the Wingers immensely.
Despite my shuffling, I had three notable wildlife encounters today. First, I saw a bear cub, the second of the trip, at the aptly named Bearfence Mtn. Hut. Second, I was followed by a deer. As I was hiking up trail, an adolescent deer was 30 yards behind me following the trail, and me, for 200 yards. It was an area strewn with boulders and I think we were both on the only route to get by. Lastly, a wild turkey entered the AT, much like at a highway on ramp, and waddled up the AT, with me in tow, for 100 yards before fleeing into the woods. There was no sense of fear on there part in any of these encounters.

Day 67, May 20, Wednesday
Start: Big Meadows Campground
End: Pass Mtn. Hut
Mileage: 18.8 miles, 933.0 miles to Springer Mtn.

I enjoyed a relaxing one-hour nap today at the Pinnacle Picnic Area after lunch in the warm sun with only seven or so miles left in the day. Of course I let time slip away, and along with an unfortunate series of phone calls home about a mail drop, I left myself little time again to make it to camp before sunset. It's the theme of the week. My procrastination did enable me to cross paths with a nice couple at the picnic area who provided me some fresh fruit and dehydrated dinners. I have a lot of goodwill to pay forward when I return home.
The trail today was very well graded, but with a fair number of rocky areas. The 80 miles I've covered in the Shenandoahs have been surprising similar. The vegatation seems to vary in areas due to human activity, but I can easily predict what's coming up for miles down the road.
I was provided dozens of views today. Almost all were facing West. The urbanization of Northern Virginia is so close to the SNP. It's like it just ends and then there is suburbs. A literal line of development you can see from 3,000 ft up. The park will never push back and reclaim any of this land. At one point the park was itself developed and resourced.

Day 68, May 21, Thursday
Start: Pass Mtn. Hut
End: Tom Floyd Wayside
Mileage: 23.6 miles, 956.6 miles from Springer

I left the Shenandoahs today and I'm alone at the Tom Floyd Wayside shelter. It's my first time alone in a shelter and it's only fitting that it would happen as I near the end of a 14-day stretch that has been hiked in relative isolation. I've enjoyed many conversations with some fellow hikers and tourists, but I've been pounding my feet to the ground alone, which isn't always bad, but I haven't enjoyed an overlook with company in a couple weeks. Hiking with Jen next week will cure that, but it's only a one week reprieve.
My wildlife experiences today included seeing my first adult bear of the trip. It was perched on a rock wall about 75 yards away from me along Skyline Drive. It nimbly jumped off the two-feet-high retaining wall and rambled into the woods. As I lay here in the shelter I'm convinced his friends are nearby.
I visited my first wayside grill today and treated myself to a bacon cheeseburger, onion rings, and a blackberry milkshake. It was delicious, but I later felt it on the 1,000 ft. climb up Hogback Mtn.

Day 69, May 22, Friday
Start: Tom Floyd Wayside
End: Sky Meadows State Park
Mileage: 23.4 miles, 977 miles from Springer Mtn.

~ No Journaling

Day 70, May 23, Saturday
Start: Gainesville, VA
End: Gainesville, VA
Mileage: ZERO DAY, 893.8 miles from Springer Mtn.

~ No Journaling

Day 71, May 24, Sunday
Start: Gainesville, VA
End: Gainesville, VA
Mileage: Zero Day, 893.8 miles from Springer Mtn.

~ No Journaling