Days 57 to 71, Daleville, Va. to Gainesville, Va.

Monday, May 25, 2009

I can't express this sentiment too much -- It's good to be off the trail. I've pushed 259 miles in 13 days, averaging a clip more than 20 miles per day. My shins held up over the long haul, but the soles of my feet, along with my leg muscles are aching and yelling for some time off, so I've relented and I'm spending a double zero weekend off the trail at my girlfriend's parent's house in Gainesville, Va., which is about 30 minutes from where I left the trail at Sky Meadows State Park. Jen will be joining me on the trail next week for a slower roll into Pennsylvania, where I'll hit the official half-way point. As for today, we are grilling out and getting her gear/supplies in order. My first-month friends are well ahead of me at this point. Harvey is in New York, along with the Brits, Whiz Kid and Spirit Fingers. I make a point to read their shelter register entries, but I'm reading their thoughts and observations from a month prior. After four weeks back on the trail, I'm just now reading their entries from late April, the same week I returned. There is a month of experiences they've had that I've yet to come across. I hope never to see that one has dropped from the trip. As for me, I'm not sure if I'll finish because my school commitments this fall may force me to quit by August 10. I may be within 100 miles from Katahdin at that drop dead date. ~ Steamboat.


Day 57, May 10, Sunday
Start: Daleville, VA
End: Bobblets Gap Shelter
Mileage: 18.5 miles, 737.1 miles from Springer Mountain

Another beautiful hike today as Virginia is quickly becoming my favorite section of the trail. The hike out of Daleville, VA was a very easy grade despite climbing 1,300 ft up to the scandalously named Fullhardt Knob Shelter for lunch.
My legs felt fresh and powerful after the zero day in Daleville. My endurance continues to bottom out after about 18 miles. I need to quickly acclimate myself to 20 mile days. I'm pushing for 23.6 miles tomorrow, but I may stop short at 18.3. I must summit at 4,200 ft. tomorrow, which is the highest point from now until New Hampshire. It may take everything out of me.
A milestone of sorts occurred today as I crossed the Blue Ridge Parkway for the first time. The AT runs parallel to the BRP for more than 100 miles and crosses the road dozens of times. I found the experience strange today to stumble into a parking lot full of Winnebegos and doughy tourists. They seemed as shocked to see me.
I share the shelter with plunger and Mr. Right, a young couple from San Francisco. I hope my snoring doesn't keep them up.


Day 58, May 11, Monday Start:
Bobblets Gap Shelter
End: Cornelius Creek Shelter
Mileage: 18.3 miles, 755.4 miles from Springer Mountain

I set out late this morning due to a light, cold rain. I didn't much enjoy the rapping of water against the roof of the shelter so early in the morning, so I pulled my sleeping bag over my head and slept until 9:30 am. The late start ruined my plan for 23.6 miles today, but I managed a nice 18.3 mile day that was quite enjoyable after the rain let up at 11 am.
I managed a three-mile pace for long bursts today. I enjoyed three long breaks to slow down the day. I usually aim for 2 mph, so the quick pace surprised me. I blistered the last five miles in under two hours, which was made all the impressive considering it included 2,200 ft of vertical climb up Floyd Mountain. I would have continued on past Cornelius Creek if it were not for the failing light.
I again share the shelter with Plunger and Mr. Right, but we haven't conversed much. The past two days I have felt the most alone so far, but that suits me fine for now. 36.5 miles in two days is a good pace. If I keep it up I may get to Jen on time.

Day 59, May 12, Tuesday
Start: Cornelius Creek Shelter
End: Johns Hollow Shelter
Mileage: 21.6 miles, 777 miles from Springer Mountain

My three-day push has netted me 58.5 miles, which pushes me closer to Jen and closer to my original itinerary. I'm only 12 days behind schedule despite my 3.5 weeks off the trail. My fast start with Harvey afforded me a bit of a cushion. If I stay at this pace I should shave even more days, which is essential because 12 days takes me to Aug. 18. School commitments start Aug. 20, so that's not enough time to return from Maine, move to St. Louis, and find and apartment. August 10 must be my drop dead date. If I'm not close to finishing, then I must save the rest for next summer. I'll be severely disappointed to be a section hiker, rather than a thru-hiker.
Today's hike was moderate with good weather. I again felt strong, but my endurance needs to increase to really hit some big days. I'm aiming for my first back-to-back 20-miler since the 50 mile challenge into Damascus, VA, which is where my shin splint exploded.

Day 60, May 13, Wednesday
Start: Johns Hollow Shelter
End: Buena Vista, VA
Mileage: 20.1 miles, 797.1 miles from Springer Mountain

After 60 days on the trail I've had more ups and downs than PUDS. From blisters to IT band pulls, along with sub zero nights, a girardia scare, overused knees and four blackened toes, I've been beaten and battered by the trail. Let's not forget my shin splint. So, as I rest in the dingiest of motel rooms, reflecting on my two months of placing one foot in front of the other, I can honestly say I've never been more committed, and excited, about the Appalachian Trail.
I've hiked 78.6 miles the past four days virtually pain free. I no longer feel like I'm on a death march or I'm running running the gauntlet. It sounds simple, but hiking without pain is actually pleasurable.
I saw my first bear cub this morning. A small, black cub ran across the trail about 30 yards in front of me and climbed half way up a tree before looking down at me. Where was the mother bear? I didn't want to come between the two, but I slowly passed the tree with a shot of adrenaline and carried on 20.1 miles in less than 8 hours. I had a good step in my pace today.

Day 61, May 14, Thursday
Start: Buena Vista, VA
End: The Priest Shelter
Mileage: 21.1 miles, 818 miles from Springer Mountain

The shelter shudders in the dark as a heavy thunderstorm batters me and my bunkmates. I narrowly beat the rain into camp as I raced through a 21.1 mile day, which was my third 20-miler in a row. This is despite not getting on the trail until 10:30 this morning because I needed a hitch out of Buena Vista.
I'm making great progress through central Virginia this past week. I've hiked 100.6 miles in five days since Daleville. I'm now 35 miles from Waynesboro, but with the oddly spaced shelters I'm only going 13 or so miles tomorrow. I'll go further and tent if the weather permits, but I've come to expect very wet weather in Virginia.
The hike today began with a tough 2,000 ft climb off of US 60 to Cold Mountain. Once through this climb it was a lot of PUDS. I'm catching many hikers, and putting their faces to their trail register entries is always interesting. Among those met today include, Spaceship, Javelin, Kiwi, L-Train, and Ketchup.

Day 62, May 15, Friday
Start: The Priest Shelter
End: Campsite
Mileage: 20.3 miles, 838.3 miles from Springer Mountain

~No Journaling

Day 63, May 17, Saturday
Start: Campsite
End: Waynesboro, VA
Mileage: 13.7 miles, 852.5 miles from Springer Mountain

~No Journaling

Day 64, May 17, Sunday
Start: Waynesboro, VA
End: Blackrock Hut
Mileage: 19.9 miles, 872.4 miles from Springer Mountain

Shenandoah National Park

I didn't journal the past two nights so I have a couple of anecdotes to relay. On my way toward Waynesboro I met a Ridgerunner named Mike. A Ridgerunner is an Appalachian Trail Conservancy volunteer who helps maintain trail. After talking a few minutes he goes, "Cooter? From Colorado?" He apparently put two & two together about my blog, which a coworker was following. "Cooter" is a Colorado nickname I had that I used as a profile name on the Appalachian Trail site Whiteblaze.net. His friend followed my journey, so I want to say hi. I'm sorry I forgot your name though. John W? From Yorktown?
Also, the town of Waynesboro has a list of trail angels who provide shelters to and from town. I called Margarite because she was far down the list and the named seemed fun. What I received was a very friendly, almost exuberant, grandmotherly tour guide. I also wish to thank her.
I enter the Shenandoahs today with a slight malaise after my big push last week. I feel bored. I hope to push a personal record this week to get the juices flowing again.

Day 65, May 18, Monday
Start: Blackrock Hut
End: High Top Hut
Mileage: 21.4 miles, 893.8 miles from Springer Mtn.

Another lethargic day today despite the 21.4 miles. I didn't hit the trail until 10:15 am because I was pretty cold after overnight lows in the 30s. My bag is rated only to 40 degrees. My lethargy may be due to some trail burnout. I'm into my fourth week back and I'm still in Virginia despite my quickening pace. I've hiked about 180 miles in nine days and the monotony may be getting to me. It will be nice to slow down with Jen.The excitement for today was animal, not view related. I saw a dozen deer, some of which were as docile as the ferrel ponies in the Grayson Highlands. They were close enough to pet and had no fear of me. They must know there are no firearms allowed in the Shenandoahs. I also saw a half dozen rabbits, also not afraid of me, and a falcon that flew no more than 30 feet over my head.I've built a good fire and I hope it warms me enough for the night. I don't want another cold night like last night. Also, I saw two deer running together. It made me a bit sad because I've no one to hang with on the trail.

Day 66, May 19, Tuesday
Start: High Top Hut
End: Big Meadows Campground
Mileage: 21.4 miles, 914.2 miles from Springer Mtn.

I managed a 9 am departure, but whatever headway that may seem to ensure was erased with my high number of breaks. It was a beautiful day, albeit another chilly night, but I just haven't fallen into the groove I was in rocking out 20 milers last week over harder terrain. I'm only three days from seeing Jen, but my legs just won't seem to get me there at a quick pace. For the third day in a row it was a mad three-hour dash to finish the day before dusk because I slacked during the day. I'm looking forward to zeroing at the Wingers immensely.
Despite my shuffling, I had three notable wildlife encounters today. First, I saw a bear cub, the second of the trip, at the aptly named Bearfence Mtn. Hut. Second, I was followed by a deer. As I was hiking up trail, an adolescent deer was 30 yards behind me following the trail, and me, for 200 yards. It was an area strewn with boulders and I think we were both on the only route to get by. Lastly, a wild turkey entered the AT, much like at a highway on ramp, and waddled up the AT, with me in tow, for 100 yards before fleeing into the woods. There was no sense of fear on there part in any of these encounters.

Day 67, May 20, Wednesday
Start: Big Meadows Campground
End: Pass Mtn. Hut
Mileage: 18.8 miles, 933.0 miles to Springer Mtn.

I enjoyed a relaxing one-hour nap today at the Pinnacle Picnic Area after lunch in the warm sun with only seven or so miles left in the day. Of course I let time slip away, and along with an unfortunate series of phone calls home about a mail drop, I left myself little time again to make it to camp before sunset. It's the theme of the week. My procrastination did enable me to cross paths with a nice couple at the picnic area who provided me some fresh fruit and dehydrated dinners. I have a lot of goodwill to pay forward when I return home.
The trail today was very well graded, but with a fair number of rocky areas. The 80 miles I've covered in the Shenandoahs have been surprising similar. The vegatation seems to vary in areas due to human activity, but I can easily predict what's coming up for miles down the road.
I was provided dozens of views today. Almost all were facing West. The urbanization of Northern Virginia is so close to the SNP. It's like it just ends and then there is suburbs. A literal line of development you can see from 3,000 ft up. The park will never push back and reclaim any of this land. At one point the park was itself developed and resourced.

Day 68, May 21, Thursday
Start: Pass Mtn. Hut
End: Tom Floyd Wayside
Mileage: 23.6 miles, 956.6 miles from Springer

I left the Shenandoahs today and I'm alone at the Tom Floyd Wayside shelter. It's my first time alone in a shelter and it's only fitting that it would happen as I near the end of a 14-day stretch that has been hiked in relative isolation. I've enjoyed many conversations with some fellow hikers and tourists, but I've been pounding my feet to the ground alone, which isn't always bad, but I haven't enjoyed an overlook with company in a couple weeks. Hiking with Jen next week will cure that, but it's only a one week reprieve.
My wildlife experiences today included seeing my first adult bear of the trip. It was perched on a rock wall about 75 yards away from me along Skyline Drive. It nimbly jumped off the two-feet-high retaining wall and rambled into the woods. As I lay here in the shelter I'm convinced his friends are nearby.
I visited my first wayside grill today and treated myself to a bacon cheeseburger, onion rings, and a blackberry milkshake. It was delicious, but I later felt it on the 1,000 ft. climb up Hogback Mtn.

Day 69, May 22, Friday
Start: Tom Floyd Wayside
End: Sky Meadows State Park
Mileage: 23.4 miles, 977 miles from Springer Mtn.

~ No Journaling

Day 70, May 23, Saturday
Start: Gainesville, VA
End: Gainesville, VA
Mileage: ZERO DAY, 893.8 miles from Springer Mtn.

~ No Journaling

Day 71, May 24, Sunday
Start: Gainesville, VA
End: Gainesville, VA
Mileage: Zero Day, 893.8 miles from Springer Mtn.

~ No Journaling