Days 45 to 56

Sunday, May 9, 2009

Hey yall, I made it to Daleville, Va., where I'm taking my first zero day since I got back on the trail two weeks ago. My shins feel awesome and I hope to get caught up on my journaling. I'm beginning a big two-week push through most of the rest of Virginia starting tomorrow. I'm meeting Jen at Manasass Gap two weeks, or 267 miles or so, from today. That's about 20 miles per day. It's going to be grueling, but I think I can do it. With the push, I'll be leaving behind many of those I've hiked with the last two weeks since I returned to the trail. They've been a great transition back and I hope they catch up to me as I slow down with Jen. From June 1 and on I'll be going at breakneck speed to Katahdin to finish. I'm cutting it close. School starts August 24. Thanks for keeping up to date with my blog. I hope to add more videos and photos in the near future.

Sincerely, ~Steamboat



Day 45, April 28, Tuesday

Start: Campsite
End: Jenkins Shelter
Mileage: 18.8 miles, 571.3 miles from Springer Mountain.


My feet hurt so bad. I hiked 18.8 miles today on very rocky terrain. I wish at times that I had my boots back for the ankle support, but the lightness and breathability of trail runners are more appealing. I may buy ankle support sleeves for each foot for more stability.
Today's highpoint was Chestnut Knob Shelter, which was situated in a beautiful, grassy meadow along a ridge. I lunched with Loon, Steam, Darkness and Bender. As we broke from lunch, Mud Flaps and One Stick were entering camp. They stayed for the night, so it's doubtful I'll see them again. They've been clearing single digits due to One Stick's knee pain.
The hike up to Chestnut Ridge was 2,000 feet of vertical climb. It was tough in the heat. The shelter was at 4,409 feet, which will be our highest point for at least a month. Leaving lunch I followed the semi-circle ridgeline for six miles. The shape of the valley below inspired the area's nickname, "God's Thumbprint." From Walker Gap it was a very steep decline, about 1,000 feet, to the shelter. This is where the formentioned rocks destroyed my ankles. They are still weak from 3.5 weeks home sitting on my ass. Everyday the soreness comes a few more miles into the hike. I'm about two weeks away from good trail shape.
I hiked about eight miles today with Darkness, or Sue from Mass. She is a graduate student in hospital administration at Yale who has been hiking with Steam, or Jason. Jason recent quit his job working as a civilian contractor with the army. The two of them are the first cases of trail love I've seen. They are reportedly dating, but they admit it's complicated. When is it not?
Loon also hiked with us off and on today. I also did a few miles with Steam. My pace was not consistent today and I got ahead and feel behind often.
My four campmates, including Bow Willow, tent tonight as I shelter alone. It's just me and the mice for the first time.


Day 46, April 29, Wednesday

Start: Jenkins Shelter
End: Helvey's Mill Shelter
Mileage: 14 miles, 585.3 miles from Springer Mountain


I felt moments of my old trail legs today. The 600 feet climb up Brushy Mtn. wasn't' too difficult and I completed the first 4.8 miles to Laurel Creek in less than two hours. Loon, Steam, Sue and I stumbled upon Trail Magic at VA 615 where a church group left Gatorades and a trash can. I broke my Nalgene bottle two nights ago while hanging my food bag, so I've been in dire need of another water bottle, and a Gatorade bottle will do just well.
I hiked most of the next 6.9 miles by myself listening to a Wilco live album. My pace was very fast and the ridgeline walking was easy and very well graded. I did the distance in 2.5 hours, the last half-mile or so with Loon, or Karen. We hitched a ride at US 52 into Bland, VA to lunch at a gas station and buy provisions. Steam and Sue also made their way down to Bland. The hitch out was easy, but the woman, dropped us 0.6 miles past the trailhead. I'm now a Yellow Blazer, having missed those 0.6 miles, most of which were along a freeway anyway. There is no way I'm going back to do that distance. I've more than made up for it with the blue blazes I've done.
While in Bland, we escaped a heavy rain. It's supposed to rain on and off for the next two days. It cuts the heat, but sloppy sleeping with wet gear is no fun. I'm aiming for Trent's Store tomorrow at VA 606. Camping is allowed with showers and laundry. There is also a rumored beautiful campsite an additional 1.9 miles past Trent's at Dismal Falls. If inclined, I'll push on even further, 24 miles to Wapiti Shelter.


Day 47, April 30, Thursday

Start: Helvey's Mill Shelter
End: Trent's Grocery Campsite
Mileage: 16.3 miles, 601.6 miles from Springer Mountain


~No Journaling



Day 48, May 1, Friday

Start: Trent's Grocery Campsite
End: Doc's Knot Shelter
Mileage: 16.1 miles, 617.7 miles from Springer Mountain


I neglected to journal last night at Trent's Grocery. I was comfy in my tent and I was too tired to put any thoughts down. My body is feeling stronger each day despite the sore ankles. I've made decent progress the past two days, but I'm still short of the 20-milers that I was making prior to my injury.
Yesterday's hike was a steady ridgeline hike descending to VA 606 where Loon and I added and additional 0.5 miles road walking to Trent's Grocery. Trent's is a country gas station with a short order cook who made a delicious philly cheese steak for dinner. I also ate a corn dog and order of fries.
The grocery also allows camping among a half dozen old mobile homes, which have not been inhabited in a very long time. Behind the campsite, the mountains looked down on the valley and horses ran wild in a field just yards away from our tents. A concrete bunker contained a natty shower and a serviceable washing machine.
The walk today was a little bit more challenging than yesterday, with a 2,000 ft climb. Most of the day was walking along a ridgeline, which only afforded a few nice views, but they were magnificent. The rain held off again today, but it remained cool because of cloud cover.
I again share the night with Loon, Steam, Sue and Bender. Another hiker joined us tonight and he's quite the talker. He's been on the trail five months, having started walking from Key West, Fla. His goal is Canada. He seems like the type that needs the trail for a sense of purpose. It's like a community that some can't seem to leave.
Tomorrow I'll enter Pearisburg, Va., before entering central Virginia Sunday.



Day 49, May 2, Saturday


Start: Doc's Knob Shelter
End: Pearisburg, Va., Rendevous Motel
Mileage: 8.2 miles, 625.9 miles from Springer Mountain.


I set out today before light to make the 8.2 miles to Pearisburg, Va., before the post office closed at noon. Although I was successful in retrieving my mail drop, I'm now sitting in the library waiting on a computer to online bank and update my blog. I may have two full weeks of entries to update in Daleville, Va., if I cannot make any progress, which is looking slim.
The hike today was more rocky ridgeline walking with a few very nice views of the valley below. From 2,000 ft. up. The homesteads below look quaint and out of another time. Large red barns, white, wood-framed farmhouses and fields cut to perfect geometric shapes dotted the country side as a light mist obscured any sights further than a couple miles. This was not the scene I actually descended into. Pearisburg is as unpicturesque of a city as any in the economically struggling rural South. The trail led through a trailer park as it entered Pearisburg. Immediately ahead was the Rendevous Motel, which despite the sexy, glamorous name, does not live up to it's billing.
Like most of the motels that cater to hikers, it is alarmingly sparse. The carpet had been ripped out, which is most likey due to muddy hiking boots, but I suspect a more sinister motive of hiking blood stains from a deadly massacre. If it were not for the hot shower I'd be happier to camp.
Pearisburg reminds me of my nights in Franklin and Damascus running amok with Jolly Rancher, or the Brits, Wes Whiz Kid, etc. I miss those guys and I hope they are all doing well.
I must go to the grocery and outfitter today. Errands are always tedious after seven days in the woods.


Day 50, May 3, Sunday

Start: Pearisburg, Va.
End: Rice Field Shelter
Mileage: 6.8 miles, 632.7 miles from Springer Mountain.


It's a very wet, cramped night at the shelter, and to make things worse, I have an awful stomach bug. I hope the stomach pains subside tomorrow, but if it was due to untreated water, it may last for days or weeks. These sort of illnesses can take people off trail.
Due to the cramped quarters tonight, I'm sleeping on the picnic table, which is fully covered, but covered in enough crumbs to keep a family of mice fat and happy all night.
The rain prevented any significant views with a heavy fog hanging on the mountain. It's clearing, and the rain has stopped, but I don't expect my clothes and gear to be dry tomorrow.
Despite my stomach and wetness, my spirits are well with the Shenandoah's only two to three weeks away. I also share the shelter tonight with a chocolate lab, Madison. She's sweet and she makes me miss Brinks. He would have loved this experience, along with the mud.
I've now been back on the trail for 120.5 miles.


Day 51, May 4, Monday

Start: Rice Field Shelter
End: War Spur Shelter
Mileage: 25.2 miles, 657.9 miles from Springer Mountain.


I'm totally exhausted at the end of a 25.2-mile day. It's my second biggest day so far after 26.4 miles into Damascus, Va., but that was a nightmare with my shins. I'm sore tonight, but I feel pretty solid, including my stomach, which gave me a a Girardia scare yesterday. The real test is how I feel the day following a high-mileage day.
There isn't much to note about today's hike other than the mileage. There were a few more walks along a cascading creek, and the sky was a pretty pink at sundown. I can't recall what occupied my mind most of today. It was a race against sundown to get to camp, which I had won. Sue and Steam arrived after sundown, while Bow Willow bat me by 20 minutes or so. No others tried for the big day. If I get further ahead tomorrow, I may not see Loon or Bender again, which upsets me since they helped welcome me back to the trail. I won't say my goodbyes just yet.


Day 52, May 5, Tuesday

Start: War Spur Shelter
End: Sarver Hollow Shelter
Mileage: 12.2 miles, 670.1 miles from Springer Mountain.


Today was a morale crushing short day in the rain after my high inducing big day yesterday. I awoke to a slight drizzle, which fizzled out during the first hour, but a steady rain built into a downpour by mid-afternoon.
On the advice of a REI employee and former thru-hiker, I left my rain pants at home. Big mistake. I was soaked and cold, which was why I sheltered at 12 miles instead of 18. It's a beautiful shelter though with sky lights and a pitched roof ceiling. The water source is near the ruins of an old homestead. A stone foundation, chimney and wood storehouse remain. I can't imagine how anyone could have farmed on this rocky hillside. I doubt anyone has inhabited the ruins in a hundred years. I'm sure most of these homesteads were abandoned as the West, with more tillable land, opened up. Possibly, these farmers lasted until the Great Depression. I'm falling behind my goal to meet Jen in Linden,Va. I'm doing my best to make it there.


Day 53, May 6, Wednesday

Start: Sarver Hollow Shelter
End: Pickle Branch Shelter
Mileage: 16.1 miles, 686.2 miles from Springer Mountain.


Another rainy day. There hasn't been a full day of sun since Chestnut Knob almost a week ago. The cool temps are nice, but putting on wet, smelly socks in the morning is very demoralizing.
The climb today was a steep 1,500 ft, but it was well graded and free of boulders, which made the climb almost enjoyable. The rain fell hard for three hours before tapering off. It has since picked up. At the top of the climb was a large granite monument to Audie Murphy, America's most decorated war hero, who died in an airplane crash nearby.
The newly blossomed threes have a lime green hue with the fresh foliage. With the overcast skies and dark ground, the green glow is even more profound and it helps lift my spirits despite the rain. The worst part of the rain is that it discourages tenting, so thru-hikers crowd the shelters making them a steamy laundry room of wet clothes. Tomorrow it's 12.6 to Catawba for an All You Can Eat, or AYCE. I'll destroy it.



Day 54, May 7, Thursday

Start: Pickle Branch Shelter
End: Johns Spring Shelter
Mileage: 13.6 miles, 699.8 miles from Springer Mountain.


The sun finally broke through grey skies today. Although I awoke early to a steady downpour, it ceased once I left camp at 9 am. More than 12 miles were between me and Catawba where an AYCE dinner awaited.
I didn't sleep well due to a restless night on a deflated sleeping pad, so I hit a brick wall with about four miles left to go. The previous nine miles were mostly ridgeline walking, including a large rock formation aptly named "Devil's Tooth." The climb down from the ridge was steep and slightly slippery from the previous night's rain.
Dinner was glorious despite walking 1.3 miles off trail to the beautifully restored home on more than 100 acres. Sue, Steam, Bender, Bow Willow and I dined on BBQ Pork, Fried Chicken and Roast Beef, along with an assortment of sides. Two hours later, I'm still stuffed. Sue's grandparents also joined us from Roanoke. I was fully aware of my body odor, which after five shower-free days is quite pungent. What must they have thought of me?

Day 55, May 8, Friday

Start: Johns Spring Shelter
End: Dalesville, VA
Mileage: 18.8 miles, 718.6 miels from Springer Mountain

Beautiful hike today along Tinker Cliffs and a great view at the Appalachian Trail's most popular, scenic spot, McAfee Knob.
I don't think it's a coincidence that this section of the trail was the most well maintained, well marked and easily graded trail since Springer due to the high number of day hikers. It's a great compromise despite losing a bit of secludedness. The weather was dry with some bouts of sunshine. It was good hiking weather to Daleville.
I hiked to town with Hot Sauce, or Nicky from Lakewood, Ohio. I also hiked with Bow Willow at times today. The three of us, along with Loon, Ducky, and Yoni Bear are staying at the Howard Johnson and plan to zero tomorrow. We could all use the rest after the long day and push from Pearisburg. I aim to fly out of the gate on Sunday for the 14 day push to see Jen at Manasass Gap.

Day 56, May 9, Saturday

Start: Dalesville, VA
End: Dalesville, VA
Mileage: Zero Day, 718.6 miles to Springer Mountain

~No Journaling