Days 72 to 83, Gainesville, Va. to Duncannon, Pa.

June 6, Saturday
I'm blogging from the Doyle Hotel bar in Duncannon, Pa. I arrived in town yesterday afternoon, and after deciding wasn't quite ready to embark on the rockiest 100 miles of the AT, I decided to zero today. I zeroed just about a week ago, consequently, I won't be taking another day off for three weeks, so I better make the most of today. This section of blog includes some pretty good milestones, such as entering Harper's Ferry with Jen, reaching the half-way point, completing the half-gallon challenge and completing a personal best 26.5-mile day. Not too bad for a week of work. I'm now closer to Maine than I am to Georgia, which is amazing to me. Even if I don't finish the AT, no one can take away from the experiences I've already encountered. So, it's time to pound out this blog, grab a beer and relax on the Susquehana river. Cheers and let's all raise a glass to an excellent summer. Oh, and go Braves! ~ Steamboat

Day 72, May 25, Monday
Start: Gainesville, Va.
End: Rod Hollow Shelter
Mileage: 6.2 miles, 983.2 miles from Springer

The rain has returned today as Jen and I hiked 6.2 miles from Sky Meadows State Park. It was a pretty difficult additional 1.7 miles from the visitors center up to the trail, so our daily total is nearly 7.9 miles.
Jen's first day included brutal humidity, shelter spiders that are quite hairy, and a snake encounter at the privy. Also, it has been raining for four hours now and we were forced to shelter, rather than tent tonight. I'm not sure if the accommodations suit her.
This weekend I was treated to the excellent hospitality of the Wingers, who made sure I was well fed and and stocked with beer. In fact. Jen's dad, Jeff, picked me up from the trailhead with beers on ice! Perfect welcoming present.
Memorial Day weekend was mostly spent in the basement preparing Jen's gear, in the backyard playing badminton, or drinking beers on the deck. Jen and I put up a poor badminton showing to her cousin Colleen. It's good to have talk and experiences beyond the trail. It has been a long time coming.

Day 73, May 26, Tuesday
Start: Rod Hollow Shelter
End: Bears Den Hostel
Mileage: 9.9 miles, 993.1 miles from Springer

Short, but difficult day today as Jen and I slipped and slided over rocks in heavy rain through the first two-thirds of the "Roller Coaster," which is a 13-mile stretch of of trail with 13 peaks to climb. The most harrowing point was shimmying across a long five-foot log over a fast moving stream. The water was too swift to wade across. We finished the day at Bears Den Hostel, where a shower, laundry, pint of ice cream, pizza and bunk were included for $25. Also, the caretaker's two-year-old daughter, Hikelette was the entertainment for the night.

Day 74, May 27, Wednesday
Start: Bears Den Hostel
End: Blackburn Trail Center
Mileage:7.96.2 miles, 1001 miles from Springer

Happy 1,001 miles on the trail! This milestone would be sweeter if I was half way to Katahdin, but I'm still about 70 miles away from that point. Tomorrow I'll make it into Harper's Ferry, WV, the emotional half way point, but it will be much nicer to know I'm leaving Virginia, where I've hiked since March 30.
I spend this special night at the Blackburn Trail Center where I enjoyed a home cooked pasta dinner from the caretaker, Brian. The center is an 1800s homestead with 180 acres and an old log house. There is also a hiker hostel, but Jen and I set up my tent on the screened-in front porch. Brian also treated us with brownies, sodas and beer. All of this was free of charge because the center is run by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club who use the center for their own use and to give back to hikers.
The rain held off today, thankfully, but the mist was dampening. The two or three views were obscured by the clouds during our short 7.9 mile day. Jen says her knee hurts, so I hope she'll be OK into Harper's Ferry. 1,000 miles. I can't seem to believe I've come this far.

Day 75, May 28, Thursday
Start: Blackburn Trail Center
End: Harper's Ferry, WV
Mileage: 12.4 miles, 1,013.4 miles from Springer

~No Journaling

Day 76, May 29, Friday
Start: Harper's Ferry, WV
End: Harper's Ferry, WV
Mileage: Zero Day, 1,013.4 miles from Springer

~No Journaling

Day 77, May 30, Saturday
Start: Harper's Ferry, WV
End: Washington Monument State Park, Maryland
Mileage: 19.1 miles, 1,032.5 miles from Springer

~No Journaling

Day 78, May 31, Sunday
Start: Washington Monument State Park, Maryland
End: Smithsburg, Maryland
Mileage: 11.9 miles, 1,044.4 miles from Springer

I have not blown out of the gate in Maryland despite slack packing yesterday and easy terrain today. It's nice not to be rushing from dawn to dusk as I was in the Shenandoahs. I only managed about 12 miles today, and despite this, I still stopped at the Free State Hostel, which is amazing. Squeaky clean with an awesome selection of sodas. Also, I am now caught up with watching The Office.
Jen did awesome hiking with me for her first 34 miles, but the last six miles into Harpers Ferry were pretty tough on her. Jen's gymnastic days were not kind to her body, and the trail has a way of bringing out every ache and pain, no matter how long it has been dormant. SO, instead of pushing on into Maryland, we zeroed in Harper's on Friday. She visited the ATC headquarters where my picture was taken for the records of 2009 thru-hikers. I was NOBO 137. Harvey was like 16! I moved on Slack packing Saturday as her mom drove to Harpers, and then to Washington Monument State Park to pick me up and take me back to their home in Northern VA. With the hostel tonight, I have not been in a shelter since Monday. I probably shouldn't get too comfortable.

Day 79, June 1, Monday
Start: Smithsburg, MD
End: Tumbling Run Shelters
Mileage: 18.3 miles, 1,062.7 miles from Springer

After my sixth straight night in either a hostel, B&B or Jen's home, I'm finally back to the shelters. this particular shelter site is interesting because there are two twin, four-person shelters only 30 feet apart. One is labeled "snoring," which I have all to myself, while the "non snoring" shelter is occupied by Phoenix.
Today's hike was rocky at times and pretty unnoteworthy. I'm getting back into the grind and my 18.3 miles is sufficient. I may try 25 miles tomorrow. I mostly thought of school today and classes I would like to teach, such as an American Exploration Literature class. It would start with Lewis & Clark and conclude with Bill Bryson's "A Walk in the Woods."
I'm not sure how long I plan to hike through Pennsylvania, which I entered mid-day today. I haven't been looking very far down the road the past week, focusing instead on the next few days ahead. I aim to be in Duncannon, PA Thursday night, but if it's Friday, then no worries. I don't' want to burn myself out meeting tough two week challenges. The only challenge that remains is Katahdin, which i prudently move toward.

Day 80, June 2, Tuesday
Start: Tumbling Run Shelter
End: Birch Run Shelter
Mileage: 19.6 miles, 1,082.3 miles from Springer

~No Journaling

Day 81, June 3, Wednesday
Start: Birch Run Shelter
End: James Fry Shelter
Mileage: 17.1 miles, 1,099.4 miles from Springer, 1,078.9 miles from Katahdin

From here on to the end of my journey I will countdown the miles to Mt. Katahdin in Maine, rather than miles from Springer Mtn. in Georgia because I am officially past half way. I'm rather shocked I made it this far as I have battled emotional and physical lows during my 80 days on the trail. To finish with time to move to St. Louis I need a sub 75-day second half.
I've already hiked through six states, with Pennsylvania being my seventh. I've placed about 2.5 million steps, very few of them pain free. Further, I've gained a sense of order to my priorities that may not have occurred without this time to really think about what is important to me. As Woody Guthrie wrote, "I've loved so many people everywhere I went. Some too much and others not enough."
It's not surprising that I think of those I miss while I'm out here, mostly alone, but the extent I miss them was unthinkable before I left. this hike remains a daily, almost hourly struggle, one I may not see to its end, but I keep moving. It's not always fun. In fact, it's often miserable, but the trek continues.
In addition to making the halfway point today, I completed the half-gallon challenge. I ate a half gallon of Moose Tracks ice cream in a paltry 1.5 hrs. Subsequently, I will never eat Moose Tracks again. Ever.

Day 82, June 4, Thursday
Start: James Fry Shelter
End: Darlington Shelter
Mileage: 26.5 miles, 1,052 miles from Katahdin, 1,125.9 miles from Springer

I have a new personal record today as I hiked 26.5 miles, including a two-hour lunch in Boiling Springs, PA. The terrain was mostly flat after an initial, gradual downhill. The last two miles were a pretty tough incline to keep the day honest, for most of the hiking was through privately owned farmland. The family farms spanned the whole of the Cumberland Valley. Climbing up the last ridge there was a rare overlook where I could see across the 15-mile wide valley I had passed through today. It was a rare instance of gaining perspective of where I was moving compared to where I started. It made the day special compared to where I started. I didn't feel as if I was walking in a bubble or snow globe with no impact on space or time. Some days it's as if I'm on a treadmill with a moving background. I rarely even know my place in a state. I was shocked to discover today that I'm half-way through Penn.
Further, I met new hikers today as I prepare to enter Duncannon tomorrow. Lulu and Bojangles join the group that includes Phoenix, brothers Younger and Older, along with their dog Rouge, and Tank.

Day 83, June 5, Friday
Start: Darlington Shelter
End: Duncannon, PA, Doyle Hotel
Mileage: 11.5 miles, 1,041 miles from Katahdin, 1,137.3 miles from Springer

~ No Journaling

Day 84, June 6, Friday
Start: Duncannon, PA, Doyle Hotel
End: Duncannon, PA, Doyle Hotel
Mileage: 11.5 miles, 1,041 miles from Katahdin, 1,137.3 miles from Springer

SONG OF THE DAY...

Muswell Hillbilly By The Kinks
Well I said goodbye to rosie rooke this morning, I'm gonna miss her bloodshot alcoholic eyes, She wore her sunday hat so she'd impress me, I'm gonna carry her memory 'til the day I die. They'll move me up to muswell hill tomorrow, Photographs and souvenirs are all I've got, They're gonna try and make me change my way of living, But they'll never make me something that I'm not. Cos I'm a muswell hillbilly boy, But my heart lies in old west virginia, Never seen new orleans, oklahoma, tennessee, Still I dream of the black hills that I ain't never seen. They're putting us in little boxes, No character just uniformity, They're trying to build a computerised community, But they'll never make a zombie out of me. They'll try and make me study elocution, Because they say my accent isn't right, They can clear the slums as part of their solution, But they're never gonna kill my cockney pride. Cos I'm a muswell hillbilly boy, But my heart lies in old west virginia, Though my hills are not green, I have seen them in my dreams, Take me back to those black hills, That I have never seen.