Days 24 to 36

March 28, Saturday
It has been two weeks since I've last blogged, so this entry will be a bit long. There seems to be something wrong with my Blog, which you may have noticed. I'm working on the problem as I take a rest in Damascus, VA this weekend. That's right, I've walked my ass all the way to Virginia! I'm now 463 miles from the start of the trail in Georgia. As always, I'm nursing some injuries, so I may have to take two days off and hit the trail Monday. Whether I stay or leave tomorrow, I'll be hitting the next part of the trail with a vengeance. Further, I've been accepted into the American Studies PhD program at Saint Louis University! I'm one-for-three after being denied acceptance to Emory Univ and the Univ. of Texas. I'm still batting .333, which isn't too shabby. I continue to wait on decisions from New Mexico and George Washington. - Steamboat

Day 24, March 15, Sunday

Start: Hot Springs, NC
End: Hot Springs, NC
Mileage: Zero Day (2)

I neglected to journal much this weekend. It's difficult to do so when there is a steady stream of food, grape soda and ESPN. Mom and Kat arrived in Hot Springs, NC, Friday night. Harvey and I had already been in town three hours and eaten dinner at the Smoky Mountain Diner. Much like Mama's Place in Cosby, the diner's menu was a cornucopia of fried goodness. Of course I over indulged. One side order isn't enough after a very tough day of downhills arriving into Hot Springs. I found four side orders merely sufficient to supplement my double cheese burger and large Dr. Pepper. Pure Deliciousity.
The cabin was more like a house with wood paneling. It was hardly rustic. The place had satellite TV and a hot tub. Best of all, dogs are allowed, and Brinkley looked as preppy and spoiled as ever. He must have had a recent Groomingdales visit. His owner looks like he's descended from a scene in Deliverance while the dog looks like an L.L. Bean photo shoot. Molly, my sister's dog, came in tow. She was as sweet and sheepish as always. Harvey came over Friday night to watch the Syracuse basketball game and we devoured an Appalachian Trail themed cookie cake designed by Jen, and delivered by Kat. An AT symbol was circled with "You smoked the Smokys." It was sugary, rich and thoughtful. We appreciated Jen's effort and we considered it a bit of trail magic.
Saturday was spent doing much of the chores that occupy town days by hikers - visiting the outfitter, Post Office, and grocery. The rest of the day was spent at the cabin messing with gear and soaking in the hot tub. I spent almost an hour and a half soaking in the hot water. Subsequently, I couldn't seem to lower my body temperature all night and I was sweating bullets for hours. I had boiled myself. Mom made steaks, which brought my weekend meat consumption up to about an entire cow. More cookie cake was consumed and I felt as though I could burst.
Harvey, his sister Florence, or "Florence Gump," and his dad came over at about 8:30 pm to say hello. They also brought Harvey's new sidekick, Harley, his lab/coonhound. Flo is also hiking with him for the upcoming week as I hang behind a day to rest my knee.
As my sister, mom, Brinks and Molly pulled out of the Smoky Mountain Diner after lunch, I was left to myself for the first time since Day 2 of the trip when I left the Hiker's Inn. It's a feeling I'm oddly used to despite my comfort zone with Harvey the past three weeks. I also had Wes, along with a dozen or so acquaintances on the trail.
***interrupted by "Sunshine," a former thru-hiker who works the counter at Iron Horse, where I was journaling.***

Day 25, March 16, Monday

Start: Hot Springs, NC
End: Campsite Near Log Cabin Drive
Mileage: 15.5 miles, 287.5 miles from Springer Mountain

I was alone today, absolutely alone tonight. Leaving Hot Springs today without a travel companion was more difficult than I had imagined. I have traveled through Europe alone, but I had a hard time finding the motivation to hit the trail today with no one pushing me. Once I got moving, at around noon, I slowly made my way along the French Broad River, then climbed North away from Hot Springs.
My reluctant shuffle today could have been due to my comfort at Elmer's Place last night. The 160-year old Victorian home, which is reportedly haunted, is a special place on the trail. Guests have the option to eat dinner, and/or breakfast. The cuisine is always vegetarian. Dinner last night was a veggie lasagna with soup, bread, salad and apple pie. Breakfast was walnut pancakes. I shared a room with two 19-year-old British guys, one of which goes by the trail name "Pac Man."
The house has a very musty smell like a log cabin that needs to air out a season of saw dust and old towels. Sunday was the hostel's first full-night this season, and the staff, which comprises of thru-hikers and would-be thru-hikers, who come back or get stuck in this beautiful home, seemed very happy to have company.
Today's hike was pretty unmemorable except hiking with Whiz Kid, a UGA grad who received his name by peeing in his water bottle one night to avoid the woods, and later forgot to rinse the bottle before drinking out of it. He was fast and I was slow today, so our day together was short, but we did lunch together.
It rained steadily today and I was unwilling to stay at the first shelter, it was only 11 miles in, or stay at the second shelter. The second was 18 miles in, so I camped in my tent at 15.5 miles from Hot Springs. When I said I'm alone, I truly am. I occupy this campsite with no one else. This is a first, and I doubt the last. Despite the rain, I'm warm in my bag. I have a good book and likely to break 300 miles tomorrow. A Jolly Rancher will be in order.

Day 26, March 17, Tuesday, St. Patrick's Day

Start: Campsite near Log Cabin Road
End: Flint Mountain Shelter
Mileage: 17 miles, 304.1 miles from Springer

Is this my first St. Patty's day without a green beer since 2001? I could have packed one in!
Today provided another reason to toast-300 miles into the hike. The day ended at 304.1 miles, which concluded with catching Harvey, Harley and Flo at the Flint Mtn. Shelter. I had thought it would be one more day until I caught up. It's good to see familiar faces and I'm looking forward to hiking with a dog tomorrow.
I felt much better hiking today. My trail legs seem to be back after the hiatus and I'm no longer stuffed with three days of town food. The sun was out to dry the woods from yesterday's rain and temps were in the 60s. I was even treated to some dirt road walking, which is a huge treat after 300 miles of uneven trail.
Further, beautiful views were plentiful today as the trail followed a rocky ridgelines, which I always get excited about.
Whiz Kid joined us tonight in the shelter. He's pushing two more days to Erwin as we go for three. I'm going to stick with Jolly Rancher and Florence Gump to Erwin. Harley is going by Knee Caps because he has no sense of space with his dog pack and will take out knees on a side swipe.
Hiking alone was good. I particularly enjoyed being able to sing with my Ipod. I also traveled at my own pace, which is an ease on the knees. I don't think I could go all the way solo though. Good views and Jolly Rancher moments should be shared. It's a big trail with lots of people on it, so I'm not too concerned about extended bits of loneliness. A day to oneself will always be nice.

Day 227, March 18, Wednesday

Start: Flint Mtn. Shelter
End: Hogback Ridge Shelter
Mileage: 8.8 miles, 312.0 miles from Springer

A short day today. I hiked with Harvey, Harley and Flo. Harley hikes like Brinkley, about 20 yards ahead of the pack. He even turns around to make sure we are all OK on the trail. It keeps things light hearted when you are tired or just in a funk.
The terrain was a mixed bag of PUDS and ridgeline walking. The forest still sleeps, so the scenery was the typical brown horizon of dead leaves. This will soon change as the warmer weather brings everything alive.
The four of us are planning one more short day tomorrow, followed by a 17-mile descent into Erwin, Tenn. Flo will then leave us as we push on to Damascus, VA, via Kincora Hostel. It's still more than 100 miles to this "Hiker Friendly" trail town. In Erwin, we plan to hit many of the All You Can Eat buffets (AYCE).
We were joined tonight by Wes, the two Brits, Whiz Kid, and the PCT guys. This is a good group to hit Erwin with.

Day 28, March 19, Thursday

Start: Hogback Ridge Shelter
End: Bald Mountain Shelter
Mileage: 10.1 miles, 323 miles from Springer Mountain

I can sense that Spring is near, but tonight's cold temps remind me that the woods are not ready to bloom. I share the Bald Mountain Shelter with Gump, Jolly Rancher and Knee Caps. Another short day today as the late afternoon shower pushed us to shelter rather than camp further down the trail. We'll have a longer day tomorrow, 17 miles, but warm beds and fatty foods await us in Erwin, Tenn.
Our thru-hiking contingent moved on tonight without us to get to Erwin early. AYCE's are too hard to pass up, but I'd rather roll into town dry a few hours later and miss the buffet. It will be there for me on Saturday.
Today's hike was uneventful, except a good view on Big Bald. Harely (aka "Knee Caps) had a blast on the grassy top of Big Bald, rolling on his back for minutes on end. Balds are so enjoyable because of the openness. The woods can give a sense of claustrophobia, especially when the leaves are full. Harley seemed to enjoy the open lawn of the Bald.
This time next week I'll be getting near Virginia. One-quarter of the trail passes through the state at a diagonal, so it will be my home for a long time. It's the first state I'm hiking to that doesn't border my home state of Georgia. This pleases me a lot. Crossing the VA line into Damascus from Tennessee would be an adventure in itself.
From Erwin, Harvey and I are pushing four to five days to the Kincora Hostel, which is directly on the trail. We'll then push two days, over 50 miles, to Damascus. The first five days will be a tough stretch. The last two days are supposed to be among the easiest on the trail.
Flo leaves us tomorrow to head back to Cornell. She was a welcomed addition to the dozen or so hikers we keep up with. It was definitely good to have a female amongst the group, even though it did little to remind us of our decorum.
Occasionally, she would receive a sorry from Wes-about our foul language, body odors or various scratchings of body parts that are better left clothed. She was a good sport, never complained and laughed quite a bit. The woods are going to be quiet without her. The woods still have Wes.

Day 29, March 20, Friday

Start: Bald Mountain Shelter
End: Erwin, Tenn., at Uncle Johnny's Hostel
Mileage: 17 miles,

~No Journaling

Day 30, March 21, Saturday

Start: Erwin, Tenn.
End: Curley Maple Shelter
Mileage: 4.2 miles, 344.1 miles from Springer Mountain

I didn't journal yesterday, which seems to be the case when in town. The ability to expend introspective thought is difficult when in town because of all the distractions when in town. It's the same situation when I'm living in town. There is too much clutter when in daily life that can turn one's brain to scrambled eggs by bed time. I never journal when at home. Despite the long hikes that blister feet and push a weary body to bed hours too early, there is usually a thought still working its way through the brain that wants to be put down on the page.
Today's short hike wasn't long enough to really wrap my mind around much except to recount a few good stories I've either not yet shared, or were just learned yesterday in Erwin.
Story One: This story was told to me by Wes. ...Dan, who I hiked into Franklin, Tenn., is from Pigeon Forge, Tenn., which is not far from the Smokys. To celebrate the upcoming 72 miles through the tough stretch, his friends met him at Fontana Dam to grill out. A middle-aged woman approached the shelter, which is one of the nicest on the trail, and announced she was a trail angel and she was going to bring them home so they could cook out and do laundry at her place. The party, which was how this cookout was described, was just heating up when the host pulled a friend of Dan's outside, dropped her pants, and asked him to "Rail me in front of God and all his witnesses." The young man, obviously a Tennessee gentleman, declined, which quickly ended the party. The quests left with wet laundry and were forced to hitch back at a very late hour to the shelter. Dan, who was entering the Smokys the following day, dropped a glove in the fiasco. He now has the trail name, "OJ." If the glove don't fit, you must acquit!
Story Two: Pac Man & Wally, the two Brits, along with Wes, were hiking under I-26 last week when they found two puppies. These were very young pups that could not hike the very rough section of upcoming trail. The Brits carried the pups, which they named after Chinese condiments that the intended to trade the dogs for at the nearest Chinese Buffet, 13 miles until a Humane Society volunteer met them on the trail to take the dogs. They deserve some good trail magic for their actions, especially since Pac Man said they barked for 8 hours without interruption.
The second story was told last night at Uncle Johnny's Hostel in Erwin, Tenn., where Jolly Rancher, Gump, Knee Caps, and Harvey's dad camped. No rooms were available in Erwin or in the surrounding area because of a nearby NASCAR race in Bristol.
Pac Man, Wally, and Wes also tented with us in the lawn of the hostel. Harvey's dad purchased a $21 tent at WalMart in spite due to the outrageous $250 rate Holiday Inn Express quoted him due to the race. Harvey's dad treated us to dinner at a pub in nearby Johnson City, Tenn., where we caught some NCAA tournament action. He also bought me a tentsite, breakfast and lunch. I appreciate his generosity and enjoyed his company. In return, I gaev him my Z-lite Foam sleeping pad. I broke down and bought a used Thermarest Air Pad for $50. I was assured it was "just like new," but it is patched.
Harvey and I are back on the trail looking to push for some big miles in our four day push to Kincora Hostel. Gump is gone, so we've lost a sense of levity, but we hope she'll be back with us again in late May. Harley still leads the pack. Also, I was accepted at Saint Louis University on Friday, and denied at Emory.

Day 31, March 22, Sunday

Start: Curley Maple Gap Shelter
End: Greasy Creek Friendly Hostel
Mileage: 20.1 miles, 364.2 miles to Springer Mountain

After 20.1 miles on the trail today, the real adventure began as Harvey and I left the Appalachian Trail to follow a Forest Service Road toward the rumor of a hostel that serves pizzas and sodas.
No advertising is allowed on the AT, so we had to guess that the way down was a rocky road that dumped out onto a county road. A few hundred feet past the terminus of the forest service road, a woman with a big smile came to meet us and welcome us to the Greasy Creek Friendly. CC, or Cornelia, welcomes hikers into her home, letting them use her shower, kitchen and living room. Harvey and I are staying in the outdoor bunkhouse, but campsites and a room inside the home are also available.
There hasn't been a quiet moment since we arrived.
***Interrupted by a lot of chatter***

Day 32, March 23, Monday

Start: Greasy Creek Friendly
End: Overmountain Shelter
Mileage: 14.8 miles, 379 miles from Springer Mountain

~No Journaling

Day 33, March 24, Tuesday

Start: Overmountain Shelter
End: Mountaineer Shelter
Mileage: 18 miles, 397 miles from Springer Mountain

I'm not going to explain at length what pain I am in. I've explained enough about my knees, arches and blisters. The trail gives back emotionally and physically. She's paying me back in spades.

I have not been properly keeping up with my journal this past week. I must make writing a habitual act and not something I can set aside when tired or distracted. I'm always easily distracted.
I wrote very little about the eccentricities of CC at the Greasy Creek Friendly. I wish I could do her justice. On the morning of our departure, CC sang us two songs about her cat, Nemo, as the rotund feline played along by raising itself on its back legs, which was no small feet given his girth, to reach for a treat. The first song went along the lines, "Fat Cat, Fat Cat, what'r ya gunna do? What'r ya gunna do when they come fur you?" The second song started, "I wish that I had CC's cat...How do you find a cat like that? Like CC's cat."
My mind was blown, and I felt a little uneasy. Harvey looked astonished and on the verge of laughing. It was sweet though.
We climbed out of Greasy Creek late. Neither of us could rise before 10 a.m., and with 14 miles ahead of us, it looked unlikely we'd reach Overmountain Shelter by nightfall. It was a tough 14 miles with a lunchtime ascent of Roan Mountain, which is our last 6,000 foot peak until New Hampshire.
As the sun began to drop behind Roan Mtn., we crossed two excellent balds before descending more than 1,000 feet to Overmountain Shelter, which is a converted barn. Harvey, Harley and I slept in the spacious loft. Despite our late start to the day, we rolled in just as the last rays of light were disapearing. We cooked in the dark among the Brits, Whiz Kid and three seciton hikers.
We left the shelter today at a reasonable 9 am depature with 18 miles ahead of us. It was a steep, but beautiful climb up to Hump Mountain. I did it with lingering discomfort in my shin. This grew to a major pain as the day progressed.
At mile 385.2 we left N.C. for good and entered Tennessee, for what felt like the 1,000th time since the trail follows, and hops across, the border for more than 200 miles.
My spirits were low today as I hobbled along. I sometimes forget why I do this. I have a beautiful girlfriend waiting for me, an upcoming baseball season, and I have school, officially, this fall.
It only takes one gorgeous view to put things back into perspective as to why I lug myself up and down these mountains. About 5.5 miles from the day's terminus at Mountaineer Shelter, a blue-blazed side trail led .1 miles to a beautiful 100-foot waterfall. Havey was quite a ways ahead of me when I reached this juncture, but he had waited. The three of us sat on the waterfall rocks for more than 30 minutes. More than anything, I enjoyed the sound of rushing water.
The last two hours were tortuous, but the Brits and Whiz Kid were at the new, three story shelter. I have level two to myself as Wally has level three. We will all filter out tomorrow to Kincora Hostel where we have heard the owner shuttles hikers to a Chinese Buffet! It's only 14 miles, so I'm doing it on one leg if I have to.
My concern is that Harvey and I planned to hike to Damascus Thursday and Friday, over 50 miles. That's a lot of wear and tear in two days. I hope I'm up to it. I always like a good challenge, plus we can zero on Saturday to watch the NCAA tourney.

Day 34, March 25, Wednesday

Start: Mountaineer Shelter
End: Kincora Hostel
Mileage: 15.6 miles, 412.6 miles from Springer Mountain

Today was a really boring hike. There was absolutely nothing to look forward to except finishing the day at Kincora Hostel. The weather didn't know what it wanted to do. We awoke to a steady rain that fizzled out once we departed the shelter in full rain gear. Hiking in rain gear is no fun when it's needed, and dreadful when not needed. Sweat quickly began to collect in my ankles, but it could not ventilate because I had my gaiters strapped on over the cuff of the rain pants.
Further, my shin hurts so bad that it feels like someone is kicking me with a steel-toed boot everytime I step. The real kick in the balls is that we are pushing 50 miles over the next two days to Damascus. There are two reasons we are moving so far, so fast. First, I need to make it to the Post Office by Saturday morning for my bounce box. Second, it's the challege of making those miles. I honestly don't think I can do it. I'll try to find th will to overcome my lack of strength.
We are sleeping tonight at Kincora Hostel, which is a donation only hostel run by Bob Peoples. The bunkhouse is an annex to his cabin-like house. He requests a $4 donation for a hot shower, bunk, laundry, and access to a full kitchen. Bob does a lot of trail maintenence and is famous on the trail for his generocity. I missed the shuttle to town, which I badly needed, but I had a mail drop from Kat sent to Kincora.
Seven of us devouared eight pizzas for dinner. I've never enjoyed pizza, well the cardboard food that passed as pizza, as I did tonight. I was starved.
Whiz Kid, the Brits, Chert and Grizzly Adams, Spirit Fingers, Astronaut and Burnt, along with two female section hikers, shared the bunkhouse. That's nine of us making off toward a six-person shelter in the rain. I know I'll be the last one in due to my nagging injuries, so I'll be tenting. It will likely be after dark and raining on this first 25-miler, which does't look as easy as advertised on the elevation profile. I anticipate being miserable. It's becoming harder to say why I'm doing this. I feel as if my spirit to keep on is going to break if I don't receive some trail magic soon. The scores of post cards from 2,000 milers sent to Bob that adore his walls remind me of the dream I had of completing this hike. I've gone more than 400 miles now. There is so much left to do.

Day 35, March 26, Thursday

Start: Kincora Hostel
End: Iron Mountain Shelter
Mileage: 24.3 miles, 436.9 miles from Springer Mountain

~No Journaling

Day 36, March 27, Friday

Start: Iron Mountain Shelter
End: Damascus, VA (Dave's Place Hostel)
Mileage: 26.1 miles, 463 miles from Springer Mountain

I made it to Virginia, which is the first state on the Appalachian Trail that doesn't touch my homestate, Georgia. I have completed about one-quarter of this journey. Today is my fifth week on the trail. It's tough to think I have about 15 more weeks to go.
IT's pretty easy to summarize the past two days-I hiked a lot. In fact, I walked 50.4 miles in two days. These long days are a difficult adjustment because there is so much time spent with the repetitive motion of putting one foot in front of the other. The terrain today enabled the big day, unlike yesterday, which seemed focused on keeping me from my goal.
Harvey and I departed Kincora Hostel at 7:30 am Thursday with the hopes of beating the crowd to Iron Mountain Shelter. The first two or three miles were spectacular. We passed the very impressive Laurel Falls and followed a creek along a rocky ledge prior to climbing out of the canyon. Then the day turned sour with more than 20 miles to go, which is not a good thing when it's only 9 am. There was a lot of hiking left to do. We climbed 1,700 feet to Pond Flats only to descend 1,700 feet. There was little point to the climb with little reward because there was no vista. We climbed down to Watauga Lake, a TVA project that is a very dingy body of water that seems to attract the RV camping sort. Circling the lake, my shin was throbbing. By the time we reached our lunch spot at Watauga Lake Shelter, the entire hostel had caught up with us. Our plan to win the race to the six-person shelter was foiled and it was destined for me to tent outside with rain in the forecast.
Harvey would have remained in the lead if it were not for me slowing him down, which is how the rest of the day went. I could hang for maybe 30 to 45 minutes following a break, then he'd pull away. Trying to keep up only makes the pain in my leg worse. At the next waypoint he'd stop and wait again, often up to 30 minutes, before we'd press on. I couldn't imagine how annoying it must be for him, but I just can't hang with him. God bless the fact he's been injury free this trip while I'm a walking textbook of overuse injuries.
By the time I reached Iron Mountain I was in shambles. 24.3 miles took everything out of me. It was raining and I still had to pitch tent and eat dinner. Harvey felt so good he moved on to the next shelter, to avoid tenting, 7 miles away to bring his daily mileage to 32. The group seemed very impressed, but I was not going to follow.
It was the first time I didn't meet his challenge. I realized I've not been hiking my hike. I've often, not always, been hiking his. I set off alone this morning for only the third time, but it felt good to go at my own pace. I felt as if I could manage my shin with the easier terrain and slower pace. There was 26.1 miles ahead, so there was only so much I could do. I made it to the Double Springs Shelter before the pain really hit. I had hiked with Whiz Kid for a bit at a good pace, which may have over done it too early. I had 18 miles to go. Leaving the shelter, I managed maybe a quarter mile before Spirit Fingers caught me and gave me four pain killers. My trail angel! I only made it to Damascus today because of the pain killers. This is not a good way to hike, nor is it sustainable. It was an interesting 18 miles filled with lots of singing and possible hallucinations, but the time peeled off the clock. I probably sang "Proud Mary" ten times in a row.
I hobbled my way into town, met the crew of Harvey, Whiz Kid, the Brits, Chert and Grizzly Adams, and Spirit Fingers at Dave's Place Hostel. We ate dinner at Quincey's Pizza, followed by a dessert run at the Dollar General. Now I lay in my bunk thinking of how far I've walked in five weeks. I'm 463 miles from Springer. I'll zero tomorrow to rest the leg. I may do it again on Sunday if needed. Harvey will push on without me. I can't hike his hike anymore because the pace is too much for me. I can't keep up and when I try, I get hurt. I'll catch up in a few weeks when he meets his dad to hike. The bubble will have to continue on with one less hiker. The next bubble will soon catch me and maybe I'll push ahead with them.