I'm blogging from the public library in Hot Springs, North Carolina. Kathleen and Mom are visiting this weekend. They've been treated with a pretty steady rainfall, but I've been treated with Brinkley. It's only been three weeks, but I feel like I've been away from that darn dog for months. I'm resting my knee up this weekend with my first two zero days before hitting the trail for a five-day push to Erwin. I'll be going at it solo because I wanted an extra day to rest my knee. Harvey will be pushing on with his sister Flo, whom I've given the trail name "Florence Gump." She's also a runner. Harvey's also been joined by his dog Harley for the remainder of the trip, so I'm sure to catch up if only to be around another dog.
I didn't journal at all this weekend on account of eating too much and lounging in the hot tub. I'll try to provide a quick wrap up of my first two zero days next week. Again, thanks for all the e-mails, and no, I have not heard from any Grad Schools yet.
Day 16, March 7, Saturday
THE GREAT SMOKEY MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK
Today was the tale of two hikes. At times I felt I had found my stride. I led the way up Shuckstack Mountain, which had a rickety fire tower Harvey and I snacked at. By mid-afternoon I was spent and looking forward to finishing the day. My left foot sprouted a marble-sized blister that put a damper on the warmest day of the trek.
We awoke to a heavy fog that completely blocked the view of Fontana Lake, which was only 30 yards away, but by the time we crossed the dam, the sun had burned off much of the fog and the early morning mist abated. After viewing a beautiful scene over the dam where the fog rolled through the valley beneath the dam, we walked up a TVA road about 1 mile to the trailhead. It was 4 miles up to Shuckstack, and I felt strong. Once I switch to lightweight socks, I think my blisters will cease to be a problem. My feet are just sweating too much in the warmer weather and mid-weight boots. I performed a little foot-911 tonight and I hope to heave one less worry over the next week. I'm very excited to see Kat on Saturday and nothing will stop me from seeing her and Brinks!
Today's big news was Harvey spotting two bear cubs about 500 feet down a ravine. Thankfully, the mother was nowhere in sight. We also met our first Ridge Runner today at Mollies Ridge Shelter. I unfortunately forgot to ask his name. I appreciate their efforts on the part of the Appalachian Trail Conservancy to maintain the trail, teach hikers Leave No Trace policies, and impart their bits of information to us. It's unfortunate that they are even needed due to cut backs in National Park budgets for full-time staff.Day 17, March 8, Sunday
Start: Russell Field Shelter
End: Silers Bald Shelter
Mileage: 14.7 miles
Miles from Springer Mtn: 192.2
Ridge walking is almost always a pleasurable experience, and in the Smokey’s, where the ridge is often the state line between Tennessee and North Carolina, it’s no exception. The best part of ridge walking is having a view to the left and right. (I have not taken the opportunity to pee into one state while standing in another, which seems to please many hikers quite a bit too much.)
With mostly an easterly course through the Smokey Mountains our views are to the North and South. Soon our path will change course North, which makes our destination in Maine a more obtainable goal—at least in my mind.
We hiked 14.7 miles today, but it felt like 100. My left knee hurt so bad today that I tasted bile in my mouth from pain induced vomit that never ran its course. It’s simply an overuse injury, but there isn’t exactly an amazing spot for a zero when I’m 2.5 days each way down the trail to civilization, or Gatlinburg. I’m crossing my fingers that a long sleep and Vitamin I (Advil) will make the swelling go down. Today is also the beginning of Daylight savings, so it’s near our usual 7 pm bedtime, but it’s still light out. Our bodies adjust to the comings and goings of the mountains, so today is a bit of an adjustment.
Tomorrow we will see Clingmans Dome, the highest point on the Appalachian Trail. At 6,643 feet, that is a few hundred feet short of Steamboat! Tomorrow will also mark our 200th mile on the trail. It’s quite an accomplishment. It’s daunting to think of how much further I have left to go. As of tonight, it’s 1,986.1 miles. I’m sub 2,000 miles, which Harvey and I hit early in the day. A Jolly Rancher celebration was in order.
Day 18, March 9, Monday
Start: Silers Bald Shelter
End: Icewater Spring Shelter
Mileage: 15.5 miles
Miles from Springer Mtn: 207.7
When hiking on the trail it’s essential to give yourself little milestones each day to keep your spirits up and forget it is 2,178 miles to Katahdin. Some days it’s simply looking 4 miles ahead to the next shelter to lunch and to check the trail register. Other days it’s crossing a busy intersection, such as we did today at Newfound Gap. Harvey and I achieved two major milestones today. First, we reached Clingmans Dome, which is the highest point on the trail, and 3.6 miles later we passed the 200-mile mark. I did both of these achievements on one good leg, for my left knee continued to flame up. Thankfully, today didn’t have too many ups and downs. I iced my knee at dinner and it already feels exponentially better.
The hike itself was beautiful today, other than some very deep patches of mud. Often, when the trees turned to firs and spruces, I felt like I was back in Colorado. With all the mud, Brinkley would have been a mess, and in heaven.
Unfortunately, my thoughts today consisted of my broken down body. I thought this third week would begin to build myself up from being torn down the first two weeks. Both feet, and now both knees have given me considerable discomfort. Harvey wants to go 20 miles tomorrow, but I don’t know if my leg can take it. I would love to push myself if I’m feeling up to it.
We share the shelter with one thru-hiker, “Rail,” from Cumming, GA. Our two bunkmates from Russell Field thought he was a girl, and it’s easy to see why. His waist is as thin as my calf. Also joining us are three friends from New Hampshire and a section hiker, “Mountain Hopper,” who goes to Bama. I didn’t catch many names tonight, but having company is always, well almost always, good on the trail.
Day 19, March 10, Tuesday
Start: Icewater Spring Shelter
End: Cosby Knob Shelter
Mileage: 20.3 miles
Miles from Springer Mtn: 228
My wobbly left knee held up for a 20.3-mile day today. At mile 12.4, we stopped at the Tri Corner Knob Shelter, but I was convinced by Harvey to push on to Cosby Knob. Despite the soreness in my left knee, I was easily swayed. I wanted a 20-miler very badly.
I hiked most of the day alone, and I was about a half-mile behind Harvey and Mountain Hopper, due to my slow, limping pace. The day still passed quickly as I was lost in my thoughts. Most of those thoughts were cursing my knee because the weather was beautiful. I didn’t want a nagging injury to ruing a pleasant hiking day.
The 20 miles were not too difficult. It was a lot of ridge running with a few ups and downs. We summitedMt. Sequoyah and Mt. Chapman, and we had a gorgeous view early in the day at Charlie’s Bunion.
Tonight I share the shelter with 12 people or so in a 12-person shelter. It’s very close quarters. I’m also in the rare position of being the oldest one in camp. We have 2 high school thru-hikers, Wooden Spoon and Wooden Duck, along with several young section hikers. I’m pretty beat from the long day, but I’m hoping for an early start to get down to leave the Smokey’s and roll into Standing Bear Farm to shower, blog and wash my clothes.
Day 20, March 11, Wednesday
Start: Cosby Knob Shelter
End: Standing Bear Farm
Mileage: 10.7 miles
Miles from Springer Mtn: 238.4
Downhills are not a good time to either make up some time or to lose yourself in your thoughts. Today I did both with only little consequence. Harvey and I maintained a solid pace downhill for five miles to reach Standing Bear Farm. When we reached the state line near the Pigeon River, we ended up catching a ride 15 miles into Cosby, N.C., with Nick, who’s a section hiker that stayed with us last night. Nick was done with his hike and he was getting ready to drive home to Connecticut, but he decided lunch with four smelly thru-hikers and Mountain Hopper was worth a two-hour delay home.
Wooden Spoon, Wooden Duck, Harvey (“Jolly Rancher” from hence forth), and I, along with Mountain Hopper, piled into Nick’s mid-size SUV with 7 packs and drove a very uncomfortable 20 minutes to Mama’s Kitchen. The restaurant is exactly what I picture a roadside diner on Route 66. It was in a gas station, it was cheap, locally owned and delicious. I was so hungry I could have eaten anything. Even the Sarah Lee pie tasted homemade. I ate two entrees, two pieces of pie and two 20-ounce Dr. Peppers.
There is something beautiful about eating amongst thru-hikers. I noticed it in Franklin. There is simply pure satisfaction in the moment. We appreciate food so much and happiness is best when shared, as the saying goes. As in Franklin, we all had little in common as in background or interests other than being thru-hikers. We all seemed to enjoy being around others who smelled just as bad, who are just as tired, and who were just as happy.
Nick, who is attempting a three-month thru-hike in May, dropped us at the trailhead where we said goodbye to Trail Hopper, who was hitching home to Nashville. The four of us headed North into the woods, which then paired off into twos as the Wooden Kids pushed on to Hot Springs. It was a short hike to the hostel, but very noteworthy. We met a Forest Service worker, Gray, who thru-hiked in 2000. He would strike the steering wheel with his palm and sigh, “Man, I’m jealous of you two!” Gray was managing a 15-acre fire that was between Standing Bear and us. It was eerie walking through the ashen remains of a plush forest that was still smoldering. Just as we departed Gray, I found two excellent Leki poles! One seemed broke, but a quick fix, which some day hiker must have neglected, and I had new poles. It was some trail magic, but I was sorry to let go of my leafy pole I found walking into the Smokey’s. I planted it firmly in the ground in the middle of the trail in the chance another day hiker takes it as their own. It was a great stick and I had many plans for it, such as carving my name into the handle. Maybe it will just rot in peace.
Standing Bear Farm is almost too much to write about. I’m staying in a cabin with two female Marines and Harvey. The caretaker is a former thru-hiker named Rockhound, on account of his masonry skills displayed at the farm-like hostel. The Marines go by “The Jerky Girls.” It’s a name given to them by Grumpy because of the massive amount of dried meat on them. Harvey, Rockhound, two SOBOs and the Marine girls sat around a nice campfire tonight and talked of the trail and Iraq. They had both completed tours. Rockhound is also a vet, who makes a dozen or so I’ve met on the trail. The girls were at the end of a six-day trip training for the Batan Death March hike, and then it’s back to their bases. I have many days ahead of me, but no base, or job, to report back to.
Day 21, March 12, Thursday
Start: Standing Bear Farm
End: Walnut Mtn. Shelter
Mileage: 20.3 miles
Miles from Springer Mtn: 258.7
True trail magic is not blind luck, like when I found Leki poles on Wednesday. Trail magic is when a trail angel goes out of their way to make your hike better. Harvey and I experienced the latter today. In a small stream less than a mile from Max Patch were two cans of soda and four mini Snickers perched on top. We later learned there were four cans when Wood Spoon and Wooden Duck said they took two and left two for the next hikers, which fortunately was Harvey and I. It was so much more special than completing 20.3 tough miles today or seeing the amazing view atop Max Patch, which is an enormous bald that provided a view of Mt. Mitchell, the highest point east of the Mississippi River. The cold returned, but tonight I’m very much please with the day.
Day 22, March 13, Friday
Start: Walnut Mtn. Shelter
End: Hot Springs, NC
Mileage:
Miles from Springer Mtn: 271.8
Day 23, March 14, Saturday
Start: Hot Springs, NC
End: Hot Springs, NC
Mileage: ZERO DAY
Miles from Springer Mtn: 271.8
Day 24, March 15, Sunday
Start: Hot Springs, NC
End: Hot Springs, NC
Mileage: ZERO DAY
Miles from Springer Mtn: 271.8
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