June 22, Monday
I'm blogging from a coffee shop in the village of Greenwood Lakes, NY, as I attempt to rehab a pretty sore hamstring that may take me off the trail. I'll explain the situation further in my June 21 post, but needless to say, I'm worried about my future on the trail. I do feel better after yesterday's zero, and I'm hoping that today's additional day off will only improve my situation. I can possibly take tomorrow off as well, but any further time would seriously hinder my ability to finish prior to August 15. Wish me well and I hope to be back on the trail soon. --Steamboat
Day 84, June 6, Saturday
Start: Duncannon, PA
End: Duncannon, PA
Mileage: Zero Day, 1,041 miles to Katahdin; 1,137.3 miles from Springer
~No Journaling
Day 85, June 7, Sunday
Start: Duncannon, PA
End: Peters Mtn. Shelter
Mileage: 11.3 miles, 1,029.7 miles to Katahdin; 1,148.6 miles from Springer
I zeroed in Duncannon, Pa., Saturday, although I hardly deserved it. Saturday was my fourth zero in nearly two week. It's as if I'm trying to make my August a sprint to the finish line. My real desire was to rest up for a good three week push. As of now, I won't be finishing before Aug. 18. School begins Aug. 20, so I have about 8 days to shave off. My stay at the Doyle Hotel in Duncannon was good for the moral. A hiker friendly bar and restaurant is on the first floor of the century-old hotel. Derelict is an accurate word to describe it. Legend has it that a guy died in a room a few years ago and wasn't discovered for three days. Without hikers, there would be no business model. The joke is that the trail runs through the bar.
The dreaded Pennsylvania rocks have not appeared, but I remain ready for the worst. I hope to leave this state by Monday. I hear good things about New Jersey, surprisingly.
There isn't much to say about Duncannon. Most of the houses wear aluminum siding, and a few are gutted by fire. It felt like a Bruce Springsteen song with blue collar miners saddled up to the Doyle's bar.
Day 86, June 8, Monday
Start: Peters Mountain Shelter
End: Campsite
Mileage: 18 miles, 1,011.7 miles to Katahdin; 1,166.6 miles from Springer
Solid, but unspectacular day, which was mostly spent ridge walking a flat, mildly rocky trail with two sharp climbs. I walked on and off today with Chris. His pace is slightly faster than me, but he takes more breaks, so our days often cross paths. We are camping at the ruins of a mining village with Phoenix and Javelin. The shelter that we all planned to stay at was infested with a half dozen children, so we rightly moved on. Chris and Phoenix have been near constant companions for almost two weeks and its nice to enter camp to see familiar faces.
The humidity and bugs were brutal today, which made the moderate terrain more challenging than it needed to be. There are flies everywhere, along with knats and mosquitoes, which hover like a cloud whenever I stop. It definitely cuts down on lunchtime loitering.
My cell phone coverage is again spotty. I really wanted to talk to Jen tonight. I miss her more than ever after spending a week on and off the trail with her.
Also, I've thought a lot about my Steamboat friends lately and how my departure has left a bad taste in my mouth. I wish I had said goodbye to a few good people. I just had so many mixed emotions the week I left.
Day 87, June 9, Tuesday
Start: Campsite
End: 501 Shelter
Mileage: 16.9 miles, 994.8 miles to Katahdin; 1,183.5 miles from Springer
At around 4 am I awoke to a loud crack and a steady drumming of rain on my tent. Within minutes, the rain grew to a downpour and lightning flashed through my eyelids every thirty seconds or so. After about 30 minutes, the storm had zeroed in on our campsite and the time between flashes and cracks of thunder was instantaneous. My initial reaction was awe at the power of the storm. I then became annoyed that my tent would be wet the following day. When a strike was so close I felt the Earth shake, I became a little alarmed my metal frame tent could be the next target, or a falling tree limb would flatten both me and my living quarters. The rain abated before I finally got out of my tent at 8 am. Although the ground was a bit sloppy and humid, the rain has held off today.
Tonight would have been a great night to have a lightning storm, for the shelter has a huge skylight. This isn't so much a shelter, but a four-sided former art studio with bunk beds. Also, pizza and sodas were ordered for dinner. Tomorrow a big day into Port Clinton, PA.
Day 88, June 10, Wednesday
Start: 501 shelter
End: Port Clinton, PA, Port Clinton Hotel
Mileage: 23.7 miles, 971 miles to Katahdin; 1,207.2 miles from Springer
~No Journaling
Day 89, June 11, Thursday
Start: Port Clinton, PA
End: Echville Shelter
Mileage: 15.2 miles, 955.9 miles to Katahdin; 1,222.4 miles from Springer
I have not mentioned in a few weeks any ailments, which is a far cry from the daily misery chronicled in my first 60 days on the trail. That streak is coming to an end as the infamous Pennsylvania rocks have officially taken their toll on me and I feel utterly broken down. It's just simple aches and pains in the knee and ankle joints, along with very tender foot pads. So far, the rocks have not been massive boulders, but rather small, sharp protuberances from the ground that poke through the soles a hundred times per mile. Another joy are the larger, rounder rocks that roll under each step. It's like walking on hard grapefruits. This sensation jostles the joints, which inflames the tendons and ligaments that are constantly being stretched.
A bit of good news is that I bought a new backpack today, and Osprey that is one-third the weight of my Gregory, which was on its last leg. The new pack eased some back pain I've been having.
I am looking forward to leaving Pennsylvania very much, despite the fun trail towns, milestones, and ice cream challenges. Jersey/NY are approaching.
Day 90, June 12, Friday
Start: Eckville Shelter
End: Bake Oven Shelter
Mileage: 17.4 miles, 938.5 miles to Katahdin; 1,239.8 miles from Springer
Today was a tough 17.4 miles over rocks of all shapes and sizes. As I mentioned yesterday, the rocks protrude from the ground as scales on a dinosaur and poke into the foot muscles from all sides. A new rock was confronted today--the suitcase to car-sized ones that required bouldering, often hand over hand, for long distances. The most difficult, and painful climb, was over the "Knife's Edge." As the name implies, the rock jutted up in spiky peaks, with a spine that looked like a long blade of a knife. The trail traversed this spine. I was thankful the wet weather had burned off, or else I'd still be out in the boulder field clutching a twisted ankle, or worse. Not to be dramatic, but it was the toughest 17 miles I've faced on the trail.
I share the shelter with Bojangles, as Phoenix and Javelin tent nearby. The shelter is an original AT shelter from the 1930s and it has seen some wear. Further, their is an apparent resident copperhead snake. Tomorrow I'm off on a short 7-mile day into Palmerton, PA to rest my rock beaten body.
Day 91, June 13, Saturday
Start: Bake Oven Shelter
End: Palmerton, PA
Mileage: 7.7 miles, 930.8 miles to Katahdin; 1,247.5 miles from Springer
~ No Journaling
Day 92, June 14, Sunday
Start: Palmerton, PA
End: Leroy A Smith Shelter
Mileage: 15.9 miles, 914.9 miles to Katahdin, 1,263.4 miles from Springer
I spent last night in the basement of the Palmerton, PA municipal building, which is provided to thru-hikers at no cost. I shared the basement with Phoenix, Bojangles and an off putting hiker named Marks. Javelin moved on past Palmerton and didn't stay. Phoenix remained in Palmerton for a medical check and I hope he catches up soon. The word is that Steam and the Darkness are only one day behind. For them to catch up, my pace must be very slow. I need to get my averages back up to the high teens before the terrain prohibits such big days.
I have 20 very rocky and difficult miles into Delaware Water Gap tomorrow, followed by about 40 miles of rocks in New Jersey. They are the bane of my existence.
Today included a 1,200 ft climb out of Palmerton at Little Gap that required climbing hand over hand over large boulders. In some ways it was fun to have a challenge, but it was more wear on the joints. It was followed by 12 miles of sharp rocks through the woods.
Day 93, June 15, Monday
Start: Leroy A Smith Shelter
End: Delaware Water Gap
Mileage: 20.2 miles, 894.7 miles to Katahdin, 1,283.6 miles from Springer
I leave Pennsylvania tomorrow and enter New Jersey, but I suspect I won'[t be seeing the end to these damn rocks. My feet are a total mess, but I'm still contemplating a 25-mile day tomorrow. I want to shave a few days off my itinerary in NJ/NY. I'm beginning to worry about finishing the trip prior to Aug. 12. it is a risk I may run out of time. I'm sure it will be a sprint to the end, which does add a bit of excitement.
The past week or so I have thought a lot about Maine. Surprisingly, that is a recent development. I looked at the Maine section in my Appalachian Trail Companion Book, which is my Bible on the trail, for the first time last week.
I can finally envision summiting Katahdin. I still have about 900 miles, but with 1,280 miles behind me, I feel such a sense of accomplishment that can only be topped with seeing Maine below me from the top of Katahdin. Despite some sore knees, my mental state is very strong. Goodbye Pennsylvania. I'll be in New England in a week.
Day 94, June 16, Tuesday
Start: Delaware Water Gap
End: YMCA Camp
Mileage: 17.7 miles, 877 miles to Katahdin, 1,301.3 miles from Springer
I'm spending the night at an old YMCA camp that is now being used to train student trail maintainers. It's derelict, nearly abandoned, and very creepy. Set aside for thru-hikers are two huts next to the lake. The huts are totally rodent infested, but if it rains I'll be dry.
After dinner we were visited by three of the camp's residents who informed us the YMCA closed the camp and sold it to Park Service decades ago because a Boy Scout project severely polluted the lake, rendering anyone who dares to enter it to break out in a poison-ivy like rash. The scouts reportedly added about 30x the proper amount of algae killer, which killed everything living, except the lake's resident beaver. This is the perfect setting for a horror movie. I was also told that the Friday the 13th movie was shot nearby.
The hike in Jersey is beautiful with great views off the ridge into the valley. The rocks are still present, but manageable. Further, I was treated to a glacial lake bordered by thousands of mountain laurels. The lake is the first glacial lake south on the trail.
Day 95, June 17, Wednesday
Start: YMCA Camp
End: Mashipacong Shelter
Mileage: 19.4 miles, 857.6 miles to Katahdin; 1,320.7 miles from Springer
~No Journaling
Day 96, June 18, Thursday
Start: Mashipacong Shelter
End: Unionville, NY
Mileage: 14.3 miles, 843.3 miles to Katahdin; 1,335 miles from Springer
~No Journaling
Day 97, June 19, Friday
Start: Unionville, NY
End: Vernon, NJ
Mileage: 11.8 miles, 831.5 miles to Katahdin; 1,346.8 miles from Springer
~No Journaling
Day 98, June 20, Saturday
Start: Vernon, NJ
End: Greenwood Lake, NY
Mileage: 12.3 miles, 819.1 miles to Katahdin; 1,369.2 miles from Springer
~No Journaling
Day 99, June 21, Saturday
Start: Greenwood Lake, NY
End: Greenwood Lake, NY
Mileage: Zero Day, 819.1 miles to Katahdin; 1,369.2 miles from Springer
I've gone four days without journaling and I have much on my mind. My body has broken down again in the form of a hamstring injury. I'm not certain of the severity of the injury, but I worry it may end my trip. With few days remaining to finish prior to my Aug. 15 deadline, I don't have a week to rest. I think I can spare two to three days, but any longer would make continuing on to finish futile. What pains me the most is that I have never been more mentally focused on the trail. I dream of summiting Katahdin every night. Needless to say, the next two days will be excruciating to sit and hip I heal enough to proceed.
The pain starts from under the bottom curve of my left butt cheek down to the back of my knee. There is a tightness to my hip and groin area, while touching the hamstring is painful, but not painful enough to wince. There is swelling, most notably behind the knee, but no discoloration to indicate blood from a muscle tear. It hurts most to push up on the leg, which is most disheartening since that's what I do all day hiking up mountains. If it was an injury only occurring on flat walking, I'd be set.
Last night I slept in Greenwood Lake, NY., after two nights in Unionville, NY, at the Mayor's house or, "The Outhouse." I can't do justice to those two days in words. Simply put, they were two of my favorite days of the trip. The events go as follows...
I arrived in Unionville late in the afternoon on Thursday in a steady rain. From word of mouth on the trail I was aware the former town Mayor would take in hikers, but I didn't know which house was his. My only clue was that he drove a silver Prius. After lapping the town, I decided to ask for help. At the General Store I approached the clerk, and in a hushed tone similar to ones used in handshake drug deals, I said, "Do you know where I can find the mayor?" My secretive nature, strange as it may sound, was due to the fact that the house was in deed a secret. The clerk not only gave me directions, but ultimately called my Mayor's house to pick both me and Bojangles up. Within minutes I was piling my gear into the truck of a man named Butch who shuttled us the half-mile to Dick's house, the former mayor.
As I entered the house I extended my hand to the guy who looked to be in charge. It was Dick. "Hi, I'm Steamboat," I said.
"Who the fuck cares," he replied as he shook my hand with a smile and urged both me and Bojangles to come in.
I had a hint of the eccentricities to come when Butch informed us of the house rules during or ride up to the house.
Rule 1: First beer is free. Each one after that is 25 cents each with a max of four beers per day.
Rule 2: No words are to be spoken longer than three syllables or a 25 cent fine per word.
Rule 3: Don't do your own dishes
Rule 4: If you say sir, Butch will punch the nearest thru-hiker.
After my stark introduction, I saw Phoenix at the kitchen table, who had been at the house for two hours, wearing an expression like, "You have no idea what you have gotten yourself into." Well, I didn't.
I stored my bag in the basement where 10 bunks had been constructed and stuffed my shoes with newspaper to dry them out. Bojangles won a rock/paper/scissors dual, so he got the shower first. My prize was the first beer.
Dinner was some really good pizza, with salad, followed by Dick's explanation of why he sees caring for hikers is his mission. For years he had seen hikers at the Post Office and the General Store looking decrepit. The smell is often worse. His wife, who passed away almost two years ago after battling MS for 15 years said the hikers were not unlike anyone else who may be stranded alone without a shower.
"What if our car broke down and no one stopped to help us?" she said. "We'd smell like them too after a few days...wouldn't it be nice if someone could help them."
Dick paused a moment to reflect on his wife's words and charitable nature.
"Wouldn't it be nice," he repeated. "It just sounds so god...when she passed I made it my mission to do just what she said."
With no advertising, no mention in the prominent trail guides, and relying on word of mouth only, Dick has attracted over 1,100 hikers in less than two years. He feeds each one dinner and breakfast, gives them a bunk, provides laundry and a shower, and encouragement. All of this is by donation only.
After a 6:30 am breakfast wake up on Friday, Bojangles and I decided to slackpack from Vernon, NJ 12 miles North back South to Unionville for another night at the Mayor's house.
With an early start and low mileage, we finished early Friday afternoon and spent the better part of four hours at the General Store eating subs, ice cream and snacks with Phoenix, who had zeroed.
That night we watched two videos with Dick that is considered mandatory viewing. They were about following one's dreams. Prior to dinner he spoke of the story of Cain and Abel that best expressed his mission toward us lowly hikers.
"Are we our brother's keeper?" he asked us. "Yes, and not just four our immediate family, but with everyone in the world. I know it's corny, but it's true. We are all brothers. You are my brothers and you are now part of my family. Butch, Bill and I will do everything in our power to help you."
His charity extended to Bill, who Dick met at a nursing home while the mayor was doing community service. Shortly, the men became friends and Bill moved in with Dick to help care for the hikers. The old folks home didn't suit Bill, who is 80.
"If it wasn't for you, I'd be dead," he said on our last night. "I was just sitting around that place waiting to die...I think you are a bunch of fucking idiots for walking that trail, but I'm here to help you."
Showing posts with label Pennsylvania. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pennsylvania. Show all posts
Monday, June 22, 2009
Saturday, June 06, 2009
Days 72 to 83, Gainesville, Va. to Duncannon, Pa.
June 6, Saturday
I'm blogging from the Doyle Hotel bar in Duncannon, Pa. I arrived in town yesterday afternoon, and after deciding wasn't quite ready to embark on the rockiest 100 miles of the AT, I decided to zero today. I zeroed just about a week ago, consequently, I won't be taking another day off for three weeks, so I better make the most of today. This section of blog includes some pretty good milestones, such as entering Harper's Ferry with Jen, reaching the half-way point, completing the half-gallon challenge and completing a personal best 26.5-mile day. Not too bad for a week of work. I'm now closer to Maine than I am to Georgia, which is amazing to me. Even if I don't finish the AT, no one can take away from the experiences I've already encountered. So, it's time to pound out this blog, grab a beer and relax on the Susquehana river. Cheers and let's all raise a glass to an excellent summer. Oh, and go Braves! ~ Steamboat
Day 72, May 25, Monday
Start: Gainesville, Va.
End: Rod Hollow Shelter
Mileage: 6.2 miles, 983.2 miles from Springer
The rain has returned today as Jen and I hiked 6.2 miles from Sky Meadows State Park. It was a pretty difficult additional 1.7 miles from the visitors center up to the trail, so our daily total is nearly 7.9 miles.
Jen's first day included brutal humidity, shelter spiders that are quite hairy, and a snake encounter at the privy. Also, it has been raining for four hours now and we were forced to shelter, rather than tent tonight. I'm not sure if the accommodations suit her.
This weekend I was treated to the excellent hospitality of the Wingers, who made sure I was well fed and and stocked with beer. In fact. Jen's dad, Jeff, picked me up from the trailhead with beers on ice! Perfect welcoming present.
Memorial Day weekend was mostly spent in the basement preparing Jen's gear, in the backyard playing badminton, or drinking beers on the deck. Jen and I put up a poor badminton showing to her cousin Colleen. It's good to have talk and experiences beyond the trail. It has been a long time coming.
Day 73, May 26, Tuesday
Start: Rod Hollow Shelter
End: Bears Den Hostel
Mileage: 9.9 miles, 993.1 miles from Springer
Short, but difficult day today as Jen and I slipped and slided over rocks in heavy rain through the first two-thirds of the "Roller Coaster," which is a 13-mile stretch of of trail with 13 peaks to climb. The most harrowing point was shimmying across a long five-foot log over a fast moving stream. The water was too swift to wade across. We finished the day at Bears Den Hostel, where a shower, laundry, pint of ice cream, pizza and bunk were included for $25. Also, the caretaker's two-year-old daughter, Hikelette was the entertainment for the night.
Day 74, May 27, Wednesday
Start: Bears Den Hostel
End: Blackburn Trail Center
Mileage:7.96.2 miles, 1001 miles from Springer
Happy 1,001 miles on the trail! This milestone would be sweeter if I was half way to Katahdin, but I'm still about 70 miles away from that point. Tomorrow I'll make it into Harper's Ferry, WV, the emotional half way point, but it will be much nicer to know I'm leaving Virginia, where I've hiked since March 30.
I spend this special night at the Blackburn Trail Center where I enjoyed a home cooked pasta dinner from the caretaker, Brian. The center is an 1800s homestead with 180 acres and an old log house. There is also a hiker hostel, but Jen and I set up my tent on the screened-in front porch. Brian also treated us with brownies, sodas and beer. All of this was free of charge because the center is run by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club who use the center for their own use and to give back to hikers.
The rain held off today, thankfully, but the mist was dampening. The two or three views were obscured by the clouds during our short 7.9 mile day. Jen says her knee hurts, so I hope she'll be OK into Harper's Ferry. 1,000 miles. I can't seem to believe I've come this far.
Day 75, May 28, Thursday
Start: Blackburn Trail Center
End: Harper's Ferry, WV
Mileage: 12.4 miles, 1,013.4 miles from Springer
~No Journaling
Day 76, May 29, Friday
Start: Harper's Ferry, WV
End: Harper's Ferry, WV
Mileage: Zero Day, 1,013.4 miles from Springer
~No Journaling
Day 77, May 30, Saturday
Start: Harper's Ferry, WV
End: Washington Monument State Park, Maryland
Mileage: 19.1 miles, 1,032.5 miles from Springer
~No Journaling
Day 78, May 31, Sunday
Start: Washington Monument State Park, Maryland
End: Smithsburg, Maryland
Mileage: 11.9 miles, 1,044.4 miles from Springer
I have not blown out of the gate in Maryland despite slack packing yesterday and easy terrain today. It's nice not to be rushing from dawn to dusk as I was in the Shenandoahs. I only managed about 12 miles today, and despite this, I still stopped at the Free State Hostel, which is amazing. Squeaky clean with an awesome selection of sodas. Also, I am now caught up with watching The Office.
Jen did awesome hiking with me for her first 34 miles, but the last six miles into Harpers Ferry were pretty tough on her. Jen's gymnastic days were not kind to her body, and the trail has a way of bringing out every ache and pain, no matter how long it has been dormant. SO, instead of pushing on into Maryland, we zeroed in Harper's on Friday. She visited the ATC headquarters where my picture was taken for the records of 2009 thru-hikers. I was NOBO 137. Harvey was like 16! I moved on Slack packing Saturday as her mom drove to Harpers, and then to Washington Monument State Park to pick me up and take me back to their home in Northern VA. With the hostel tonight, I have not been in a shelter since Monday. I probably shouldn't get too comfortable.
Day 79, June 1, Monday
Start: Smithsburg, MD
End: Tumbling Run Shelters
Mileage: 18.3 miles, 1,062.7 miles from Springer
After my sixth straight night in either a hostel, B&B or Jen's home, I'm finally back to the shelters. this particular shelter site is interesting because there are two twin, four-person shelters only 30 feet apart. One is labeled "snoring," which I have all to myself, while the "non snoring" shelter is occupied by Phoenix.
Today's hike was rocky at times and pretty unnoteworthy. I'm getting back into the grind and my 18.3 miles is sufficient. I may try 25 miles tomorrow. I mostly thought of school today and classes I would like to teach, such as an American Exploration Literature class. It would start with Lewis & Clark and conclude with Bill Bryson's "A Walk in the Woods."
I'm not sure how long I plan to hike through Pennsylvania, which I entered mid-day today. I haven't been looking very far down the road the past week, focusing instead on the next few days ahead. I aim to be in Duncannon, PA Thursday night, but if it's Friday, then no worries. I don't' want to burn myself out meeting tough two week challenges. The only challenge that remains is Katahdin, which i prudently move toward.
Day 80, June 2, Tuesday
Start: Tumbling Run Shelter
End: Birch Run Shelter
Mileage: 19.6 miles, 1,082.3 miles from Springer
~No Journaling
Day 81, June 3, Wednesday
Start: Birch Run Shelter
End: James Fry Shelter
Mileage: 17.1 miles, 1,099.4 miles from Springer, 1,078.9 miles from Katahdin
From here on to the end of my journey I will countdown the miles to Mt. Katahdin in Maine, rather than miles from Springer Mtn. in Georgia because I am officially past half way. I'm rather shocked I made it this far as I have battled emotional and physical lows during my 80 days on the trail. To finish with time to move to St. Louis I need a sub 75-day second half.
I've already hiked through six states, with Pennsylvania being my seventh. I've placed about 2.5 million steps, very few of them pain free. Further, I've gained a sense of order to my priorities that may not have occurred without this time to really think about what is important to me. As Woody Guthrie wrote, "I've loved so many people everywhere I went. Some too much and others not enough."
It's not surprising that I think of those I miss while I'm out here, mostly alone, but the extent I miss them was unthinkable before I left. this hike remains a daily, almost hourly struggle, one I may not see to its end, but I keep moving. It's not always fun. In fact, it's often miserable, but the trek continues.
In addition to making the halfway point today, I completed the half-gallon challenge. I ate a half gallon of Moose Tracks ice cream in a paltry 1.5 hrs. Subsequently, I will never eat Moose Tracks again. Ever.
Day 82, June 4, Thursday
Start: James Fry Shelter
End: Darlington Shelter
Mileage: 26.5 miles, 1,052 miles from Katahdin, 1,125.9 miles from Springer
I have a new personal record today as I hiked 26.5 miles, including a two-hour lunch in Boiling Springs, PA. The terrain was mostly flat after an initial, gradual downhill. The last two miles were a pretty tough incline to keep the day honest, for most of the hiking was through privately owned farmland. The family farms spanned the whole of the Cumberland Valley. Climbing up the last ridge there was a rare overlook where I could see across the 15-mile wide valley I had passed through today. It was a rare instance of gaining perspective of where I was moving compared to where I started. It made the day special compared to where I started. I didn't feel as if I was walking in a bubble or snow globe with no impact on space or time. Some days it's as if I'm on a treadmill with a moving background. I rarely even know my place in a state. I was shocked to discover today that I'm half-way through Penn.
Further, I met new hikers today as I prepare to enter Duncannon tomorrow. Lulu and Bojangles join the group that includes Phoenix, brothers Younger and Older, along with their dog Rouge, and Tank.
Day 83, June 5, Friday
Start: Darlington Shelter
End: Duncannon, PA, Doyle Hotel
Mileage: 11.5 miles, 1,041 miles from Katahdin, 1,137.3 miles from Springer
~ No Journaling
Day 84, June 6, Friday
Start: Duncannon, PA, Doyle Hotel
End: Duncannon, PA, Doyle Hotel
Mileage: 11.5 miles, 1,041 miles from Katahdin, 1,137.3 miles from Springer
SONG OF THE DAY...
I'm blogging from the Doyle Hotel bar in Duncannon, Pa. I arrived in town yesterday afternoon, and after deciding wasn't quite ready to embark on the rockiest 100 miles of the AT, I decided to zero today. I zeroed just about a week ago, consequently, I won't be taking another day off for three weeks, so I better make the most of today. This section of blog includes some pretty good milestones, such as entering Harper's Ferry with Jen, reaching the half-way point, completing the half-gallon challenge and completing a personal best 26.5-mile day. Not too bad for a week of work. I'm now closer to Maine than I am to Georgia, which is amazing to me. Even if I don't finish the AT, no one can take away from the experiences I've already encountered. So, it's time to pound out this blog, grab a beer and relax on the Susquehana river. Cheers and let's all raise a glass to an excellent summer. Oh, and go Braves! ~ Steamboat
Day 72, May 25, Monday
Start: Gainesville, Va.
End: Rod Hollow Shelter
Mileage: 6.2 miles, 983.2 miles from Springer
The rain has returned today as Jen and I hiked 6.2 miles from Sky Meadows State Park. It was a pretty difficult additional 1.7 miles from the visitors center up to the trail, so our daily total is nearly 7.9 miles.
Jen's first day included brutal humidity, shelter spiders that are quite hairy, and a snake encounter at the privy. Also, it has been raining for four hours now and we were forced to shelter, rather than tent tonight. I'm not sure if the accommodations suit her.
This weekend I was treated to the excellent hospitality of the Wingers, who made sure I was well fed and and stocked with beer. In fact. Jen's dad, Jeff, picked me up from the trailhead with beers on ice! Perfect welcoming present.
Memorial Day weekend was mostly spent in the basement preparing Jen's gear, in the backyard playing badminton, or drinking beers on the deck. Jen and I put up a poor badminton showing to her cousin Colleen. It's good to have talk and experiences beyond the trail. It has been a long time coming.
Day 73, May 26, Tuesday
Start: Rod Hollow Shelter
End: Bears Den Hostel
Mileage: 9.9 miles, 993.1 miles from Springer
Short, but difficult day today as Jen and I slipped and slided over rocks in heavy rain through the first two-thirds of the "Roller Coaster," which is a 13-mile stretch of of trail with 13 peaks to climb. The most harrowing point was shimmying across a long five-foot log over a fast moving stream. The water was too swift to wade across. We finished the day at Bears Den Hostel, where a shower, laundry, pint of ice cream, pizza and bunk were included for $25. Also, the caretaker's two-year-old daughter, Hikelette was the entertainment for the night.
Day 74, May 27, Wednesday
Start: Bears Den Hostel
End: Blackburn Trail Center
Mileage:7.96.2 miles, 1001 miles from Springer
Happy 1,001 miles on the trail! This milestone would be sweeter if I was half way to Katahdin, but I'm still about 70 miles away from that point. Tomorrow I'll make it into Harper's Ferry, WV, the emotional half way point, but it will be much nicer to know I'm leaving Virginia, where I've hiked since March 30.
I spend this special night at the Blackburn Trail Center where I enjoyed a home cooked pasta dinner from the caretaker, Brian. The center is an 1800s homestead with 180 acres and an old log house. There is also a hiker hostel, but Jen and I set up my tent on the screened-in front porch. Brian also treated us with brownies, sodas and beer. All of this was free of charge because the center is run by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club who use the center for their own use and to give back to hikers.
The rain held off today, thankfully, but the mist was dampening. The two or three views were obscured by the clouds during our short 7.9 mile day. Jen says her knee hurts, so I hope she'll be OK into Harper's Ferry. 1,000 miles. I can't seem to believe I've come this far.
Day 75, May 28, Thursday
Start: Blackburn Trail Center
End: Harper's Ferry, WV
Mileage: 12.4 miles, 1,013.4 miles from Springer
~No Journaling
Day 76, May 29, Friday
Start: Harper's Ferry, WV
End: Harper's Ferry, WV
Mileage: Zero Day, 1,013.4 miles from Springer
~No Journaling
Day 77, May 30, Saturday
Start: Harper's Ferry, WV
End: Washington Monument State Park, Maryland
Mileage: 19.1 miles, 1,032.5 miles from Springer
~No Journaling
Day 78, May 31, Sunday
Start: Washington Monument State Park, Maryland
End: Smithsburg, Maryland
Mileage: 11.9 miles, 1,044.4 miles from Springer
I have not blown out of the gate in Maryland despite slack packing yesterday and easy terrain today. It's nice not to be rushing from dawn to dusk as I was in the Shenandoahs. I only managed about 12 miles today, and despite this, I still stopped at the Free State Hostel, which is amazing. Squeaky clean with an awesome selection of sodas. Also, I am now caught up with watching The Office.
Jen did awesome hiking with me for her first 34 miles, but the last six miles into Harpers Ferry were pretty tough on her. Jen's gymnastic days were not kind to her body, and the trail has a way of bringing out every ache and pain, no matter how long it has been dormant. SO, instead of pushing on into Maryland, we zeroed in Harper's on Friday. She visited the ATC headquarters where my picture was taken for the records of 2009 thru-hikers. I was NOBO 137. Harvey was like 16! I moved on Slack packing Saturday as her mom drove to Harpers, and then to Washington Monument State Park to pick me up and take me back to their home in Northern VA. With the hostel tonight, I have not been in a shelter since Monday. I probably shouldn't get too comfortable.
Day 79, June 1, Monday
Start: Smithsburg, MD
End: Tumbling Run Shelters
Mileage: 18.3 miles, 1,062.7 miles from Springer
After my sixth straight night in either a hostel, B&B or Jen's home, I'm finally back to the shelters. this particular shelter site is interesting because there are two twin, four-person shelters only 30 feet apart. One is labeled "snoring," which I have all to myself, while the "non snoring" shelter is occupied by Phoenix.
Today's hike was rocky at times and pretty unnoteworthy. I'm getting back into the grind and my 18.3 miles is sufficient. I may try 25 miles tomorrow. I mostly thought of school today and classes I would like to teach, such as an American Exploration Literature class. It would start with Lewis & Clark and conclude with Bill Bryson's "A Walk in the Woods."
I'm not sure how long I plan to hike through Pennsylvania, which I entered mid-day today. I haven't been looking very far down the road the past week, focusing instead on the next few days ahead. I aim to be in Duncannon, PA Thursday night, but if it's Friday, then no worries. I don't' want to burn myself out meeting tough two week challenges. The only challenge that remains is Katahdin, which i prudently move toward.
Day 80, June 2, Tuesday
Start: Tumbling Run Shelter
End: Birch Run Shelter
Mileage: 19.6 miles, 1,082.3 miles from Springer
~No Journaling
Day 81, June 3, Wednesday
Start: Birch Run Shelter
End: James Fry Shelter
Mileage: 17.1 miles, 1,099.4 miles from Springer, 1,078.9 miles from Katahdin
From here on to the end of my journey I will countdown the miles to Mt. Katahdin in Maine, rather than miles from Springer Mtn. in Georgia because I am officially past half way. I'm rather shocked I made it this far as I have battled emotional and physical lows during my 80 days on the trail. To finish with time to move to St. Louis I need a sub 75-day second half.
I've already hiked through six states, with Pennsylvania being my seventh. I've placed about 2.5 million steps, very few of them pain free. Further, I've gained a sense of order to my priorities that may not have occurred without this time to really think about what is important to me. As Woody Guthrie wrote, "I've loved so many people everywhere I went. Some too much and others not enough."
It's not surprising that I think of those I miss while I'm out here, mostly alone, but the extent I miss them was unthinkable before I left. this hike remains a daily, almost hourly struggle, one I may not see to its end, but I keep moving. It's not always fun. In fact, it's often miserable, but the trek continues.
In addition to making the halfway point today, I completed the half-gallon challenge. I ate a half gallon of Moose Tracks ice cream in a paltry 1.5 hrs. Subsequently, I will never eat Moose Tracks again. Ever.
Day 82, June 4, Thursday
Start: James Fry Shelter
End: Darlington Shelter
Mileage: 26.5 miles, 1,052 miles from Katahdin, 1,125.9 miles from Springer
I have a new personal record today as I hiked 26.5 miles, including a two-hour lunch in Boiling Springs, PA. The terrain was mostly flat after an initial, gradual downhill. The last two miles were a pretty tough incline to keep the day honest, for most of the hiking was through privately owned farmland. The family farms spanned the whole of the Cumberland Valley. Climbing up the last ridge there was a rare overlook where I could see across the 15-mile wide valley I had passed through today. It was a rare instance of gaining perspective of where I was moving compared to where I started. It made the day special compared to where I started. I didn't feel as if I was walking in a bubble or snow globe with no impact on space or time. Some days it's as if I'm on a treadmill with a moving background. I rarely even know my place in a state. I was shocked to discover today that I'm half-way through Penn.
Further, I met new hikers today as I prepare to enter Duncannon tomorrow. Lulu and Bojangles join the group that includes Phoenix, brothers Younger and Older, along with their dog Rouge, and Tank.
Day 83, June 5, Friday
Start: Darlington Shelter
End: Duncannon, PA, Doyle Hotel
Mileage: 11.5 miles, 1,041 miles from Katahdin, 1,137.3 miles from Springer
~ No Journaling
Day 84, June 6, Friday
Start: Duncannon, PA, Doyle Hotel
End: Duncannon, PA, Doyle Hotel
Mileage: 11.5 miles, 1,041 miles from Katahdin, 1,137.3 miles from Springer
SONG OF THE DAY...
Muswell Hillbilly By The Kinks | |
| Well I said goodbye to rosie rooke this morning, I'm gonna miss her bloodshot alcoholic eyes, She wore her sunday hat so she'd impress me, I'm gonna carry her memory 'til the day I die. They'll move me up to muswell hill tomorrow, Photographs and souvenirs are all I've got, They're gonna try and make me change my way of living, But they'll never make me something that I'm not. Cos I'm a muswell hillbilly boy, But my heart lies in old west virginia, Never seen new orleans, oklahoma, tennessee, Still I dream of the black hills that I ain't never seen. They're putting us in little boxes, No character just uniformity, They're trying to build a computerised community, But they'll never make a zombie out of me. They'll try and make me study elocution, Because they say my accent isn't right, They can clear the slums as part of their solution, But they're never gonna kill my cockney pride. Cos I'm a muswell hillbilly boy, But my heart lies in old west virginia, Though my hills are not green, I have seen them in my dreams, Take me back to those black hills, That I have never seen. | |
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