June 22, MondayI'm blogging from a coffee shop in the village of Greenwood Lakes, NY, as I attempt to rehab a pretty sore hamstring that may take me off the trail. I'll explain the situation further in my June 21 post, but needless to say, I'm worried about my future on the trail. I do feel better after yesterday's zero, and I'm hoping that today's additional day off will only improve my situation. I can possibly take tomorrow off as well, but any further time would seriously hinder my ability to finish prior to August 15. Wish me well and I hope to be back on the trail soon. --Steamboat
Day 84, June 6, SaturdayStart: Duncannon, PAEnd: Duncannon, PAMileage: Zero Day, 1,041 miles to Katahdin; 1,137.3 miles from Springer~No
JournalingDay 85, June 7, SundayStart: Duncannon, PA
End: Peters Mtn. Shelter
Mileage: 11.3 miles, 1,029.7 miles to Katahdin; 1,148.6 miles from Springer
I zeroed in
Duncannon, Pa., Saturday, although I hardly deserved it. Saturday was my fourth zero in nearly two week. It's as if I'm trying to make my August a sprint to the finish line. My real desire was to rest up for a good three week push. As of now, I won't be finishing before Aug. 18. School begins Aug. 20, so I have about 8 days to shave off. My stay at the Doyle Hotel in
Duncannon was good for the moral. A hiker friendly bar and restaurant is on the first floor of the century-old hotel. Derelict is an accurate word to describe it. Legend has it that a guy died in a room a few years ago and wasn't discovered for three days. Without hikers, there would be no business model. The joke is that the trail runs through the bar.
The dreaded Pennsylvania rocks have not appeared, but I remain ready for the worst. I hope to leave this state by Monday. I hear good things about New Jersey, surprisingly.
There isn't much to say about
Duncannon. Most of the houses wear aluminum siding, and a few are gutted by fire. It felt like a Bruce Springsteen song with blue collar miners saddled up to the Doyle's bar.
Day 86, June 8, MondayStart: Peters Mountain Shelter
End: Campsite
Mileage: 18 miles, 1,011.7 miles to Katahdin; 1,166.6 miles from Springer
Solid, but unspectacular day, which was mostly spent ridge walking a flat, mildly rocky trail with two sharp climbs. I walked on and off today with Chris. His pace is slightly faster than me, but he takes more breaks, so our days often cross paths. We are camping at the ruins of a mining village with Phoenix and Javelin. The shelter that we all planned to stay at was infested with a half dozen children, so we rightly moved on. Chris and Phoenix have been near constant companions for almost two weeks and its nice to enter camp to see familiar faces.
The humidity and bugs were brutal today, which made the moderate terrain more challenging than it needed to be. There are flies everywhere, along with
knats and mosquitoes, which hover like a cloud whenever I stop. It definitely cuts down on lunchtime loitering.
My cell phone coverage is again spotty. I really wanted to talk to Jen tonight. I miss her more than ever after spending a week on and off the trail with her.
Also, I've thought a lot about my Steamboat friends lately and how my departure has left a bad taste in my mouth. I wish I had said goodbye to a few good people. I just had so many mixed emotions the week I left.
Day 87, June 9, TuesdayStart: Campsite
End: 501 Shelter
Mileage: 16.9 miles, 994.8 miles to Katahdin; 1,183.5 miles from SpringerAt around 4 am I awoke to a loud crack and a steady drumming of rain on my tent. Within minutes, the rain grew to a downpour and lightning flashed through my eyelids every thirty seconds or so. After about 30 minutes, the storm had zeroed in on our campsite and the time between flashes and cracks of thunder was instantaneous. My initial reaction was awe at the power of the storm. I then became annoyed that my tent would be wet the following day. When a strike was so close I felt the Earth shake, I became a little alarmed my metal frame tent could be the next target, or a falling tree limb would flatten both me and my living quarters. The rain abated before I finally got out of my tent at 8 am. Although the ground was a bit sloppy and humid, the rain has held off today.
Tonight would have been a great night to have a lightning storm, for the shelter has a huge skylight. This isn't so much a shelter, but a four-sided former art studio with bunk beds. Also, pizza and sodas were ordered for dinner. Tomorrow a big day into Port Clinton, PA.
Day 88, June 10, WednesdayStart: 501 shelter
End: Port Clinton, PA, Port Clinton HotelMileage: 23.7 miles, 971 miles to Katahdin; 1,207.2 miles from Springer~No
JournalingDay 89, June 11, ThursdayStart: Port Clinton, PA
End: Echville Shelter
Mileage: 15.2 miles, 955.9 miles to Katahdin; 1,222.4 miles from SpringerI have not mentioned in a few weeks any ailments, which is a far cry from the daily misery chronicled in my first 60 days on the trail. That streak is coming to an end as the infamous Pennsylvania rocks have officially taken their toll on me and I feel utterly broken down. It's just simple aches and pains in the knee and ankle joints, along with very tender foot pads. So far, the rocks have not been massive boulders, but rather small, sharp protuberances from the ground that poke through the soles a hundred times per mile. Another joy are the larger, rounder rocks that roll under each step. It's like walking on hard grapefruits. This sensation jostles the joints, which inflames the tendons and ligaments that are constantly being stretched.
A bit of good news is that I bought a new backpack today, and Osprey that is one-third the weight of my Gregory, which was on its last leg. The new pack eased some back pain I've been having.
I am looking forward to leaving Pennsylvania very much, despite the fun trail towns, milestones, and ice cream challenges. Jersey/NY are approaching.
Day 90, June 12, FridayStart: Eckville Shelter
End: Bake Oven Shelter
Mileage: 17.4 miles, 938.5 miles to Katahdin; 1,239.8 miles from SpringerToday was a tough 17.4 miles over rocks of all shapes and sizes. As I mentioned yesterday, the rocks protrude from the ground as scales on a dinosaur and poke into the foot muscles from all sides. A new rock was confronted today--the suitcase to car-sized ones that required bouldering, often hand over hand, for long distances. The most difficult, and painful climb, was over the "Knife's Edge." As the name implies, the rock jutted up in spiky peaks, with a spine that looked like a long blade of a knife. The trail traversed this spine. I was thankful the wet weather had burned off, or else I'd still be out in the boulder field clutching a twisted ankle, or worse. Not to be dramatic, but it was the toughest 17 miles I've faced on the trail.
I share the shelter with Bojangles, as Phoenix and Javelin tent nearby. The shelter is an original AT shelter from the 1930s and it has seen some wear. Further, their is an apparent resident copperhead snake. Tomorrow I'm off on a short 7-mile day into
Palmerton, PA to rest my rock beaten body.
Day 91, June 13, Saturday
Start: Bake Oven Shelter
End: Palmerton, PA
Mileage: 7.7 miles, 930.8 miles to Katahdin; 1,247.5 miles from Springer
~ No
JournalingDay 92, June 14, SundayStart: Palmerton, PAEnd: Leroy A Smith ShelterMileage: 15.9 miles, 914.9 miles to Katahdin, 1,263.4 miles from SpringerI spent last night in the basement of the
Palmerton, PA municipal building, which is provided to
thru-hikers at no cost. I shared the basement with Phoenix, Bojangles and an off putting hiker named Marks. Javelin moved on past
Palmerton and didn't stay. Phoenix remained in
Palmerton for a medical check and I hope he catches up soon. The word is that Steam and the Darkness are only one day behind. For them to catch up, my pace must be very slow. I need to get my averages back up to the high teens before the terrain prohibits such big days.
I have 20 very rocky and difficult miles into Delaware Water Gap tomorrow, followed by about 40 miles of rocks in New Jersey. They are the bane of my existence.
Today included a 1,200 ft climb out of
Palmerton at Little Gap that required climbing hand over hand over large boulders. In some ways it was fun to have a challenge, but it was more wear on the joints. It was followed by 12 miles of sharp rocks through the woods.
Day 93, June 15, MondayStart: Leroy A Smith ShelterEnd: Delaware Water GapMileage: 20.2 miles, 894.7 miles to Katahdin, 1,283.6 miles from SpringerI leave Pennsylvania tomorrow and enter New Jersey, but I suspect I won'[t be seeing the end to these damn rocks. My feet are a total mess, but I'm still contemplating a 25-mile day tomorrow. I want to shave a few days off my itinerary in NJ/NY. I'm beginning to worry about finishing the trip prior to Aug. 12. it is a risk I may run out of time. I'm sure it will be a sprint to the end, which does add a bit of excitement.
The past week or so I have thought a lot about Maine. Surprisingly, that is a recent development. I looked at the Maine section in my Appalachian Trail Companion Book, which is my Bible on the trail, for the first time last week.
I can finally envision
summiting Katahdin. I still have about 900 miles, but with 1,280 miles behind me, I feel such a sense of accomplishment that can only be topped with seeing Maine below me from the top of
Katahdin. Despite some sore knees, my mental state is very strong. Goodbye Pennsylvania. I'll be in New England in a week.
Day 94, June 16, TuesdayStart: Delaware Water GapEnd: YMCA CampMileage: 17.7 miles, 877 miles to Katahdin, 1,301.3 miles from SpringerI'm spending the night at an old YMCA camp that is now being used to train student trail maintainers. It's derelict, nearly abandoned, and very creepy. Set aside for
thru-hikers are two huts next to the lake. The huts are totally rodent infested, but if it rains I'll be dry.
After dinner we were visited by three of the camp's residents who informed us the YMCA closed the camp and sold it to Park Service decades ago because a Boy Scout project severely polluted the lake, rendering anyone who dares to enter it to break out in a poison-ivy like rash. The scouts reportedly added about 30x the proper amount of algae killer, which killed everything living, except the lake's resident beaver. This is the perfect setting for a horror movie. I was also told that the Friday the 13
th movie was shot nearby.
The hike in Jersey is beautiful with great views off the ridge into the valley. The rocks are still present, but manageable. Further, I was treated to a glacial lake bordered by thousands of mountain laurels. The lake is the first glacial lake south on the trail.
Day 95, June 17, WednesdayStart: YMCA Camp
End:
Mashipacong Shelter
Mileage: 19.4 miles, 857.6 miles to
Katahdin; 1,320.7 miles from Springer
~No
JournalingDay 96, June 18, ThursdayStart: Mashipacong Shelter
End: Unionville, NY
Mileage: 14.3 miles, 843.3 miles to Katahdin; 1,335 miles from Springer~No
JournalingDay 97, June 19, FridayStart: Unionville, NY
End: Vernon, NJ
Mileage: 11.8 miles, 831.5 miles to Katahdin; 1,346.8 miles from Springer~No
JournalingDay 98, June 20, Saturday
Start: Vernon, NJ
End: Greenwood Lake, NY
Mileage: 12.3 miles, 819.1 miles to Katahdin; 1,369.2 miles from Springer~No
JournalingDay 99, June 21, Saturday
Start: Greenwood Lake, NY
End: Greenwood Lake, NY
Mileage: Zero Day, 819.1 miles to Katahdin; 1,369.2 miles from SpringerI've gone four days without
journaling and I have much on my mind. My body has broken down again in the form of a hamstring injury. I'm not certain of the severity of the injury, but I worry it may end my trip. With few days remaining to finish prior to my Aug. 15 deadline, I don't have a week to rest. I think I can spare two to three days, but any longer would make continuing on to finish futile. What pains me the most is that I have never been more mentally focused on the trail. I dream of
summiting Katahdin every night. Needless to say, the next two days will be excruciating to sit and hip I heal enough to proceed.
The pain starts from under the bottom curve of my left butt cheek down to the back of my knee. There is a tightness to my hip and groin area, while touching the hamstring is painful, but not painful enough to wince. There is swelling, most notably behind the knee, but no discoloration to indicate blood from a muscle tear. It hurts most to push up on the leg, which is most disheartening since that's what I do all day hiking up mountains. If it was an injury only occurring on flat walking, I'd be set.
Last night I slept in Greenwood Lake, NY., after two nights in
Unionville, NY, at the Mayor's house or, "The Outhouse." I can't do justice to those two days in words. Simply put, they were two of my favorite days of the trip. The events go as follows...
I arrived in
Unionville late in the afternoon on Thursday in a steady rain. From word of mouth on the trail I was aware the former town Mayor would take in hikers, but I didn't know which house was his. My only clue was that he drove a silver
Prius. After lapping the town, I decided to ask for help. At the General Store I approached the clerk, and in a hushed tone similar to ones used in handshake drug deals, I said, "Do you know where I can find the mayor?" My secretive nature, strange as it may sound, was due to the fact that the house was in deed a secret. The clerk not only gave me directions, but ultimately called my Mayor's house to pick both me and Bojangles up. Within minutes I was piling my gear into the truck of a man named Butch who shuttled us the half-mile to Dick's house, the former mayor.
As I entered the house I extended my hand to the guy who looked to be in charge. It was Dick. "Hi, I'm Steamboat," I said.
"Who the fuck cares," he replied as he shook my hand with a smile and urged both me and Bojangles to come in.
I had a hint of the eccentricities to come when Butch informed us of the house rules during or ride up to the house.
Rule 1: First beer is free. Each one after that is 25 cents each with a max of four beers per day.
Rule 2: No words are to be spoken longer than three syllables or a 25 cent fine per word.
Rule 3: Don't do your own dishes
Rule 4: If you say sir, Butch will punch the nearest
thru-hiker.
After my stark introduction, I saw Phoenix at the kitchen table, who had been at the house for two hours, wearing an expression like, "You have no idea what you have gotten yourself into." Well, I didn't.
I stored my bag in the basement where 10 bunks had been constructed and stuffed my shoes with newspaper to dry them out. Bojangles won a rock/paper/scissors dual, so he got the shower first. My prize was the first beer.
Dinner was some really good pizza, with salad, followed by Dick's explanation of why he sees caring for hikers is his mission. For years he had seen hikers at the Post Office and the General Store looking decrepit. The smell is often worse. His wife, who passed away almost two years ago after battling MS for 15 years said the hikers were not unlike anyone else who may be stranded alone without a shower.
"What if our car broke down and no one stopped to help us?" she said. "We'd smell like them too after a few days...wouldn't it be nice if someone could help them."
Dick paused a moment to reflect on his wife's words and charitable nature.
"Wouldn't it be nice," he repeated. "It just sounds so god...when she passed I made it my mission to do just what she said."
With no advertising, no mention in the prominent trail guides, and relying on word of mouth only, Dick has attracted over 1,100 hikers in less than two years. He feeds each one dinner and breakfast, gives them a bunk, provides laundry and a shower, and encouragement. All of this is by donation only.
After a 6:30 am breakfast wake up on Friday, Bojangles and I decided to
slackpack from Vernon, NJ 12 miles North back South to
Unionville for another night at the Mayor's house.
With an early start and low mileage, we finished early Friday afternoon and spent the better part of four hours at the General Store eating subs, ice cream and snacks with Phoenix, who had zeroed.
That night we watched two videos with Dick that is considered mandatory viewing. They were about following one's dreams. Prior to dinner he spoke of the story of Cain and Abel that best expressed his mission toward us lowly hikers.
"Are we our brother's keeper?" he asked us. "Yes, and not just four our immediate family, but with everyone in the world. I know it's corny, but it's true. We are all brothers. You are my brothers and you are now part of my family. Butch, Bill and I will do everything in our power to help you."
His charity extended to Bill, who Dick met at a nursing home while the mayor was doing community service. Shortly, the men became friends and Bill moved in with Dick to help care for the hikers. The old folks home didn't suit Bill, who is 80.
"If it wasn't for you, I'd be dead," he said on our last night. "I was just sitting around that place waiting to die...I think you are a bunch of fucking idiots for walking that trail, but I'm here to help you."
